Insufficient supply of electricity (i think)

[dixoy]

guys this is just a simple question...my ride is having prob with with its suply of electricity ( i think).

signs:
1. i noticed that my aircon fan and lights are humihina-lumalakas everytime i step - release on the accelerator.

2. kapag ON naman ang aircon, headlights and sound system lalo humihina ang supply.. d na nga tumutunong busina ko not unless i step on the accelerator.

sound setup:
1 pc orion amp
4 12" kicker subs
1 1000w(cheap) amp
4 capacitors
4 targa seps
pioneer HU
alpine EQ

things i already did:
1. buy new 70 amp alternator
2. buy new batt (11 plates)

still walang nagbago.hehe


any comments, help, suggestions will be appreciated!

TIA!

[niky]

Errh... time for a second (or even third?) battery?

[BoEinG_747]

check mo ang mga grounds/connections ng electrical wirings mo baka may nag loose

bago ba talaga ang naipalit mo na Alternator ,baka ni recon lang ?

[lolo pepe]

http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbt...rs_faq.html#10

Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands.

[dixoy]

yup its brand new 70amps.. i replaced the old one which is 45 amps.... pero same results...

[busy road]

Bro, to effectively determine the voltage drop of your electrical system, check the voltage at the battery side and load end. The voltage drop difference should not be more than 5%.
If battery voltage is measured 13.5V, you load end voltage should be higher than 12.8. Otherwise your wiring have something to do with the failure.