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  1. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    16
    #1
    Hi Guys,

    I need help in choosing an amp to power my seps. Currently i'm using Morel Maximo 6.5". A friend of mine is talking me into using the Firland FA360.4 amp to power up my seps. He says it's a 90 x 4 rms and it's more clean sounding compared to the JBL amps. My question is the Firland FA360.4 a reputable and good amp? In what league or level is the Firland? Need your inputs. Thanks.

  2. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    #2

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    16
    #3
    Additional info, yung mga bagong models daw ng JBL na amo now is under powered na daw. Wala daw kwenta.

  4. Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    3,527
    #4
    Firland is a good entry budget amplifier. The next "level" would probably be Powerbass ASA600.4 or if you need more power, the RE 1600XT.

  5. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by jhnkvn View Post
    Firland is a good entry budget amplifier. The next "level" would probably be Powerbass ASA600.4 or if you need more power, the RE 1600XT.
    Sir,

    Is the Firland better than the V12's with regards to the sound quality and power? Thanks.

  6. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    16
    #6
    Additional info guys, yung mga bagong JBL models daw na amp hindi na daw ok. Underpowered na daw.

  7. #7
    A good audio system start with the head unit signal through the amplifier and a set of speakers. It is very important to match each set to finally fine tune your system. The issue is in between the set of a good speakers and an amp to power the signal from the head unit, we have to over power these sets to finally eliminate the noise other than music, any amp that has the ability to stand at 100watts rms * 4ohm in 14.4volts (real power) can easily drive the speaker 90watts rms * 4ohm, the morel maximo is 90watts rms * 4ohm so we need an amp that has these specs, let say the power bass ASA 600.4x 4 ch Amplifier, it is a AB amp so we do not have the problem in signal, only in the power supply, you will be needed a at least 2 farad capacitor to maintain your voltage even in the long run, the total harmonic distortion of these amp is probably 0.05%, very low so the signal is purely accurate and audible to our ears, the frequency response of morel maximo is 50-20,000 hz and the powerbass is 20-22,000hz, so again we don't have any problem with it in frequency tuning, sensitivity will again meet there, maximo is 90.5db and the powerbass is 94db, CAUTION: do not bridge any speaker if your more on sound quality, bridging may cause the impedance of the speaker possibly lower than its own and may cause these speaker to distort.
    Any amplifier that has these ability and suit your budget will probably drive your components, point to a good installer for that and you will enjoy its performance.. good luck sir.

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by tsikotshop View Post
    A good audio system start with the head unit signal through the amplifier and a set of speakers. It is very important to match each set to finally fine tune your system. The issue is in between the set of a good speakers and an amp to power the signal from the head unit, we have to over power these sets to finally eliminate the noise other than music, any amp that has the ability to stand at 100watts rms * 4ohm in 14.4volts (real power) can easily drive the speaker 90watts rms * 4ohm, the morel maximo is 90watts rms * 4ohm so we need an amp that has these specs, let say the power bass ASA 600.4x 4 ch Amplifier, it is a AB amp so we do not have the problem in signal, only in the power supply, you will be needed a at least 2 farad capacitor to maintain your voltage even in the long run, the total harmonic distortion of these amp is probably 0.05%, very low so the signal is purely accurate and audible to our ears, the frequency response of morel maximo is 50-20,000 hz and the powerbass is 20-22,000hz, so again we don't have any problem with it in frequency tuning, sensitivity will again meet there, maximo is 90.5db and the powerbass is 94db, CAUTION: do not bridge any speaker if your more on sound quality, bridging may cause the impedance of the speaker possibly lower than its own and may cause these speaker to distort.
    Any amplifier that has these ability and suit your budget will probably drive your components, point to a good installer for that and you will enjoy its performance.. good luck sir.
    Hi Sir,

    So are you saying that the Firland FA 360.4 with a rating of 75 x 4 will be underpowered for my Morel Maximo?

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by moksymoks View Post
    Hi Sir,

    So are you saying that the Firland FA 360.4 with a rating of 75 x 4 will be underpowered for my Morel Maximo?
    Will the additional 25 watts of the Powerbass ASA 600.4 matter in perceiving more loudness on the volume?

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    3,527
    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by moksymoks View Post
    Will the additional 25 watts of the Powerbass ASA 600.4 matter in perceiving more loudness on the volume?
    I remember that 2x loudness is 10x wattage. So: 100w -> you want this to be twice as loud -> you'll need 1000W. Don't pay too much attention to wattage, just try to match them up. Focus on the quality of the amplifiers instead.

    The additional 25W would give you "headroom" for future upgrades. You don't want to be powering your components too low, clipping occurs and damage occurs :P

    Still, 80% from the RMS is a good rule of thumb as a power reference. The Morels is like Hertz. They're powerhogs unlike Focals which touts its high efficiency.

    Does the Firland have enough power to power your Morels? Yes. Just keep the volume at bay. Would I recommend the jump to the Powerbass? Yes.

    Although I'd have to disagree with Tsikotshop's comment about bridging. I'm a big fan of bridging due to the flexibility of 4-channel amps. Is there an impact on sound quality? Very minor, personally, can't really hear any of them :P The biggest perk of 4-channel amps? Running your speakers from passive to active.

  11. #11
    Level matching is the main topic in these thread, and as i do my homework to finally clear some issues here, let me share what i've got..
    Let me start in amplifier;
    Amplifier's are rated by how much power they can deliver. Power should be measured in watts RMS and not in "peak", "max" or "music power". These are all bogus, inflated ratings and should be disregarded. The power specification can vary with the supply (vehicle) voltage and the load (total speaker impedance) on the amplifier. To compare one amplifier's output to another's it's important that the measurements were taken under similar conditions. Most power specifications should be stated like the following:
    100 watts RMS, all channels driven from 20Hz-20kHz, into a 4 ohm load, 12 volt supply
    You may have to look at the owner's manual to find these true specifications. Many amplifiers, even from the top brands, will print "maximum" power ratings on their amplifier heatsinks and product boxes. The power rating may also be given into a two ohm load or with 14.4 volts. Both of which can increase the power output. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples.
    Next is the speaker ratings;
    Speakers also have a power specification but it is how much power they can handle, not how much they deliver. Speakers use power and amplifiers deliver power. This specification is also given in watts RMS. Peak power handling is often given as well but RMS is the one to pay attention to.
    So the question many people will assume the answer to is, "Do speakers with larger power handling sound better or play louder?". The answer is a definite maybe. The ability to handle power by itself means virtually nothing. A speaker that will handle a lot of power may sound better because it is probably built better than a speaker with lower power handling. But that's not always the case and the only real way to tell which sounds better is to listen to them. It may also play louder because it can handle more power. But if it has a lower sensitivity than it may take twice as much power to play at the same level as a speaker with a higher sensitivity. And higher power handling may not even be needed. If your amplifier only puts out 100 watts than you don't really need a speaker that can handle 300 watts.
    This is the most straight forward way of matching car audio amplifiers to speakers. Hook each channel of the amplifier to a single speaker or speaker pair in the case of component speakers. This will give the amplifier a 4 ohm impedance load, the most common speaker impedance in car audio. You can drop the load to most amplifiers by wiring multiple speakers in parallel.
    But not all amplifiers will be able to drive speaker impedances below 4 ohms. Most will be able to drive 2 ohm loads, but not all. Some high current amplifiers are capable of driving loads of 1 ohm or less but these are not the norm for non-subwoofer applications. Make sure you know how you will wire your speakers and the impedance the total load will be. Choose an amplifier that is capable of driving that impedance or you may have problems. Also know that decreasing the impedance load on an amplifier will not only increase power (a good thing) but it will also increase distortion, heat and the life of your amplifier (though the difference may be small for quality amplifiers).
    In practice you almost never want to connect more than one full range speaker to an amplifier channel. It's true you will get more volume but you will also lose front to rear fading if you run your front and back speakers to a single 2 channel amplifier or your stereo image if you run the left and right speakers off of the same channel. By using a 4 channel amplifier you will retain front to rear fading, a stereo image, your distortion will be less and your amplifier will probably last longer.

Newbie need help in choosing an amp to power the seps