DEH 6350SD vs DEH 8350SD

[larshell]

I'm now looking for a good and cheap head unit. I narrow down my choices with this two models.
The only variance between the two that concerns me is the RCA PREOUTS and Audio components because I don't know what it means and it can do. How it differ in performance and durability? Also 6350 has remote while 8350 it is optional.
Kindly click the link to see the comparison. [SIZE=3]DEH 6350SD vs DEH 8350SD[/SIZE]
What does 3 Hi-volt preouts means? I already ask around for the price, gap is around 2k. The two units is with in my budget. Is the extra 2k is worth it? Can anyone enlighten me? THanks!

[normanenoza]

remote is not optional with the 8350SD. display is the major difference between the two.

[niwde11]

I'm now looking for a good and cheap head unit. I narrow down my choices with this two models.
The only variance between the two that concerns me is the RCA PREOUTS and Audio components because I don't know what it means and it can do. How it differ in performance and durability? Also 6350 has remote while 8350 it is optional.
Kindly click the link to see the comparison. [SIZE=3]DEH 6350SD vs DEH 8350SD[/SIZE]
What does 3 Hi-volt preouts means? I already ask around for the price, gap is around 2k. The two units is with in my budget. Is the extra 2k is worth it? Can anyone enlighten me? THanks!

usually higher Hi-Volt preouts is good if you are installing aftermarket amplifiers. yung old alpine radio ko is already 5V pre-out. kung di ka naman concern sa ganun okay na yung kahit walang pre outs.

[jhnkvn]

I'm now looking for a good and cheap head unit. I narrow down my choices with this two models.
The only variance between the two that concerns me is the RCA PREOUTS and Audio components because I don't know what it means and it can do. How it differ in performance and durability? Also 6350 has remote while 8350 it is optional.
Kindly click the link to see the comparison. [SIZE=3]DEH 6350SD vs DEH 8350SD[/SIZE]
What does 3 Hi-volt preouts means? I already ask around for the price, gap is around 2k. The two units is with in my budget. Is the extra 2k is worth it? Can anyone enlighten me? THanks!

Take it from me, just having 2 pre-outs would satisfy 99% of the population. The other 1% are those who like 3-way components and running everything active. Performance? Durability? Same internal components most likely. I don't see how an improvement of 2,000pesos would mean Pioneer changing internal components.. it's definitely not feasible to chuck a Burr-Brown DAC there at the very least so expect the same performance.

Seems to me like normanenoza's correct. The only difference is the screen.

You might want to scout around for a secondhand Alpine CDA-9887 or even add some more to the budget just to acquire it. Then again, that's not in the realm of a good and cheap head unit.. it's in the realm of relatively affordable but excellent head unit (in terms of features versus price).

[larshell]

remote is not optional with the 8350SD. display is the major difference between the two.

According to link it is optional for 8350. Thanks

usually higher Hi-Volt preouts is good if you are installing aftermarket amplifiers. yung old alpine radio ko is already 5V pre-out. kung di ka naman concern sa ganun okay na yung kahit walang pre outs.

Main reasons for HU upgrade is hindi man lang ako maka play ng MP3 and very limited ang tuning capability ng Stock HU sayang yun speakers ko. Thanks

Take it from me, just having 2 pre-outs would satisfy 99% of the population. The other 1% are those who like 3-way components and running everything active. Performance? Durability? Same internal components most likely. I don't see how an improvement of 2,000pesos would mean Pioneer changing internal components.. it's definitely not feasible to chuck a Burr-Brown DAC there at the very least so expect the same performance.

Seems to me like normanenoza's correct. The only difference is the screen.

You might want to scout around for a secondhand Alpine CDA-9887 or even add some more to the budget just to acquire it. Then again, that's not in the realm of a good and cheap head unit.. it's in the realm of relatively affordable but excellent head unit (in terms of features versus price).

I already look around for the 9887 phaseout na daw. They always push me to pioneer. If 9887 is already phaseout what other Alpine models that are Relatively affordable but excellent HU. Thanks

[jhnkvn]

I already look around for the 9887 phaseout na daw. They always push me to pioneer. If 9887 is already phaseout what other Alpine models that are Relatively affordable but excellent HU. Thanks

Sadly, yes, the CDA9887 is already phased out. However, I think their distributor in Banawe, Perfect Circle, still sells some of them. The thing with Pioneer is that the head units that have extensive tuning capabilities and time alignment are those in the P-series (P80, P90, P99) and those are WAY beyond the budget.

I would still urge you to find secondhand 9887. But if you insist on first-hand units, the CDA117 + H100 processor comes into mind but this would set you back 20k versus the 12k and below of the 9887. Check your mail, I'll send you a link where you can scout around for secondhand 9887 units.

[normanenoza]

i have the 8350sd driving only targa seps and coaxials with an active 10" sub at the trunk. if you dont prefer the fancy display, go get the 6350sd as these have the same components.

[larshell]

Sadly, yes, the CDA9887 is already phased out. However, I think their distributor in Banawe, Perfect Circle, still sells some of them. The thing with Pioneer is that the head units that have extensive tuning capabilities and time alignment are those in the P-series (P80, P90, P99) and those are WAY beyond the budget.

I would still urge you to find secondhand 9887. But if you insist on first-hand units, the CDA117 + H100 processor comes into mind but this would set you back 20k versus the 12k and below of the 9887. Check your mail, I'll send you a link where you can scout around for secondhand 9887 units.

Maspro recommend that, CDA117 with imprint. 20K up if not mistaken. Then also recommend Pioneer 9 series i forgot the exact model around 10K. Hindi naman daw ako mag compete kaya ok na daw yun.
BTW, PM quota na kayo sir. THanks.

i have the 8350sd driving only targa seps and coaxials with an active 10" sub at the trunk. if you dont prefer the fancy display, go get the 6350sd as these have the same components.

How much kuha nyo sir for the 8350sd? Are you satisfied with it? Thanks



Question lang mga sir. Ano kaibahan ng Bumbay na HU and Pioneer warranty. Thanks

[jhnkvn]

The P9 series is definitely expensive. Not just 10k upwards. P99RS alone costs 35-40k. Once you got phase problems done right and have alignment with the drivers, you've eliminated most of the problems in car audio.

*Freed up my inbox*

[larshell]

It's DEH 9350 pals not 9 series and it's only 8K. Sorry for the confusion. PM you sir. Thanks

[jhnkvn]

Best option is to still go for a secondhand CDA-9887.

#2 option (will upgrade in the future) is to just get the CDA-117 (as you like it brand-new) and upgrade to the PXA-H100 in the future.

#3 option (will not upgrade) is to just get any mainstream Pioneer unit. Wala naman masyado difference in capabilities and internal components so choosing is (jokingly) based how much you like its appearance.

Personally, I believe time alignment is very important. A more hassle way to do this is independent L/R EQ like how those old IASCA/EMMA champions used to do it in their day. Like I said, once you get T/A and your phrase correctly, majority of your problems are gone.

As for the lack of bass, madami pwede culprits. Since I'm not sure how you define bass (most people perceive bass as somewhere 50hz to 250hz where 250hz is the "macho" sound of the male voice), this might be due to the:

1. Crossover. Maybe Jon crossed the midbass at 100hz and as you don't have a subwoofer, so there's a hole from 20-100hz. This is HIGHLY unlikely for experienced installers.

2. Phase. Does the midbass look like it's "lost?", if it isn't focused or it's hard to locate, it's probably a phase issue.

3. Product defect. Although remote, there's also that possibility that the midbass is a defect. My Focal 3KRX3 had a defect initially and I had it replaced, before replacement all I hear was very audible distortion. The chances of it is very remote though.

4. Level-matching. Again, it's highly unlikely for experienced installers to oversee this. But it does happen. And as I do not know how the setup is: is it passively bridged? Is it active? If it's passively bridged, then #4 is automatically invalidated. If it's full-active, the midbass is probably not level-matched with the rest of the system hence it's -dB lower.

5. Perception of bass. I had times when people sit in my car and say "hindi ba dapat BOOM BOOM yun bass? Bat ang hina?"

Again, these is just one of those numerous possibilities on why. Other possibilities are: faulty RCA kaya? etc. For most cases, I'd recommend you check #2 and #4 first. #5 is also a common mistake on the user since there was a time when I switched my subwoofer off, cut my midbass at 100hz, and the first thing I exclaimed was "shet, nawala bass ko!"