Toyota Avanza Owners & Discussions [ARCHIVED]

[juanarodriguez]

I remember reading earlier sa thread about TYT Balintawak discount coupons...for those interested I am posting the link:

TYT BALINTAWAK offering discounts click this link http://www.toyotabalintawak.com/ShowCoupons.do

[shadow3616931]

*Shadow dahan dahan na po ako mag drive ngayon as in back to 40K max kahit ako lang ang nasa kalye...hehehe...kesa ibayad ko pa sa ticket ipang shopping ko na lang!!!

QUESTION PO: I am due for my 10K PMS, is it advisable to shift back to ordinary oil kasi low mileage po ako.

6/2/2007 1K PMS ako pina-fully synthetic ako ng SA.
9/15/ check-up but did not replace oil
12/22/07 suppose to be for 6 mos PMS kaya lang the SA advised me na bumalik na lang kasi ang odo reading ko then was only 5944km and since naka fully synth naman ako ibalik ko na lang for change oil when i reach 8K or more.

as of today my odo reading is 8,300km pa lang

Suggestion ko mineral oil ka na lang muka maiksi lang travel ng car mo, pero change oil ka in 3 months. Nag sythetic muna ako ngayon kasi puro long distance ako alam mo na summer season dami outing

[sascha]

dito rin ba posting car care tips? MODS pakilipat na lng atsaka medyo may kahabaan din itong post ko. pulot lang sa kabilang forum

PROVEN WAYS TO MAKE YOUR CAR LAST 300,000 MILES:
Some drivers appear to have great luck keeping their vehicles trouble free for many years -- even decades. Others don’t even make it past 60,000 miles without major problems. The longevity of your vehicle can depend on what type you own, but driving and maintenance habits also are crucial. A few proven techniques -- some easy, some more complex but worth the effort -- can help keep your vehicle running beyond the 300,000-mile mark.

DRIVING TECHNIQUES

Coast as much as possible. Plan your approach to red lights, stop signs and turns long before you reach them. Don’t accelerate unnecessarily and then step on the brake at the last moment -- that wears down brakes quickly.

Accelerate slowly. Avoid jackrabbit starts. Flooring the gas pedal when the engine is cold is a major reason for blown head gaskets, which are expensive to fix. Drive as though you have an egg between your foot and the gas pedal. Reserve rapid acceleration for emergency situations.

Allow the engine to get hot. To help flush contaminants, such as fuel and moisture, from the motor oil, drive at highway speeds for 30 minutes at least once a month.

Delay heating or cooling. To prevent adding an extra load on the engine, allow it to run for a minute so that it is lubricated before you turn on the windshield defroster or air conditioner.

Run the air conditioner or windshield defroster at least once a month (even in cooler weather) for about a minute to circulate oil through the heating and cooling system. Otherwise, oil may settle in the compressor, causing the system to stop operating.

Use the parking brake. If you don’t use it at least once a week while parked -- even if you’re not parked on an incline -- the parking brake can freeze up and fail to release.

Wind down turbocharged engines. The engine should be allowed to idle a few minutes before you shut it down. This allows the turbo to stop spinning while it is still being lubricated with motor oil. (Don’t close the garage door until the engine is off.)

Avoid two-footed driving. Using the left foot to brake can lead to unconscious riding of the brakes, which wears them out and confuses the engine control computer, possibly leading to stalling, surging and high emissions.

With manual transmissions, use the brakes and not the gears to slow down -- brakes are cheaper to replace than the transmission. For most manual transmission vehicles, aim to operate the engine between 2,000 and 3,000 revolutions per minute (RPM) to avoid overworking or over-revving the engine. Don’t keep the clutch pedal pressed any more than necessary. Keep your hand off the gear shift when driving to avoid excess strain on the transmission. Don’t necessarily park in gear -- if another car bumps into yours while yours is in gear, the transmission could be damaged. Exception: Park in gear is for extra traction on inclines.

With automatic transmissions, shift into park when idling for extended periods to allow the transmission to cool down. Don’t idle for long periods in neutral, because some bearings are not lubricated in neutral.

FUEL CHOICES

Try to use a gas additive with every fill-up because modern gasoline doesn’t contain enough detergents to keep the fuel system clean. Avoid additives that contain methanol, methyl, alcohol, xylene, toluene or acetone -- these can damage the fuel system hoses and pump.



Use the octane called for in the vehicle’s owner’s manual. Putting premium fuel in an engine designed for regular, or vice versa, won’t deliver better mileage, and it can cause a buildup of carbon in the combustion chambers, which hurts driving performance.

Don’t let the fuel level drop below one-quarter tank. A low tank promotes condensation, which can damage the fuel pump.

Don’t fill the tank to the top of the filler neck. Topping off after the gas hose clicks can damage the evaporative emission canister, which will cause the “check engine” light to come on.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Determine the normal life expectancy for major parts so that you can replace them before they fail.

Example: Most people never think to replace their radiator, but a radiator should be changed every 10 years or 150,000 miles -- or sooner, depending on your driving conditions..

Rotate tires every 7,500 miles to extend tire life and improve gas mileage. (Some vehicles have tires that cannot be swapped from front to back or side to side.) It’s also a good opportunity for your technician to check the vehicle for potential problems, such as leaks or parts that are about to fail.

Have the battery tested annually at a shop that uses a “conductance” tester, which can predict battery life. When the battery wears out, replace it with an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery, which lasts at least twice as long as an ordinary battery, offers more cranking power, recharges faster and increases starter and alternator life. AGM batteries are sealed and don’t vent explosive gases or cause corrosion of the cables or nearby electrical components, as conventional batteries do. Examples of AGM batteries: Optima, Odyssey

If the battery can be opened up, you can top off the electrolyte (fluid). Use distilled water only for this.

Clean the throttle body and fuel injectors every 30,000 miles -- unless a gas additive is used regularly.

Change spark plugs every 60,000 miles. Replace plug wires, if applicable, every 100,000 to 120,000 miles.

OTHER HELPFUL STEPS

Keep only a few keys on the ignition key ring. The extra weight from a fistful of keys will wear out the ignition switch prematurely in some vehicles.

Use a car cover if you don’t garage your vehicle. It reduces environmental damage to the paint and sun damage to the interior.

Use a windshield sunshade or dashboard cover to preserve the dash vinyl when parked in the sun.

WHEN TO CHANGE THE OIL, BRAKE FLUID...

The owner’s manual often does not include recommendations for the change intervals for important fluids and filters, or the recommended intervals may be too far apart. Use the guidelines below unless the manufacturer recommends shorter intervals...

Oil. The old rule of thumb for oil changes is every three months or 3,000 miles, but if you drive in a mild climate or use synthetic oil, this may be too frequent. If you drive in more severe conditions, it might not be frequent enough. Also: Have your oil analyzed every few years with a test kit. This will tell you whether you change the oil often enough for your kind of driving, and it will warn you of potential problems.

Example: Finding trace amounts of coolant or sand (silica) in the oil allows you to take corrective action before the engine is damaged.

Brake fluid. Every two years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first, for vehicles with an antilock braking system (ABS). Every three years or 36,000 miles for those without ABS. Use DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid, which has good corrosion inhibitors.

Power steering fluid. Every two years or 24,000 miles.

Long-life radiator coolant. Every three years or 36,000 miles. Buy premixed coolant, or mix it yourself with distilled water, not tap water, which can cause mineral deposits to plug up the radiator.

Transmission fluid for automatic transmissions. Every three years or 36,000 miles in front-wheel-drive vehicles... every five years or 50,000 miles in rear-wheel-drive vehicles. Synthetic transmission fluid extends the interval by one year or 10,000 miles.

Transmission fluid for manual transmissions. Every 60,000 miles, or 100,000 miles when using synthetic transmission fluid.

Fuel filter. At least every 50,000 miles. A partially blocked fuel filter can cause premature failure of the fuel pump. Best: Use the same brand of filter that the factory supplied.

from: http://www.bottomlinesecrets.com/blpnet/ar...rticle_id=44248

[shadow3616931]

dito rin ba posting car care tips? MODS pakilipat na lng atsaka medyo may kahabaan din itong post ko. pulot lang sa kabilang forum


from: http://www.bottomlinesecrets.com/blp...ticle_id=44248

Nice research, thanks to your effort in finding these tips.

[meledson]

dito rin ba posting car care tips? MODS pakilipat na lng atsaka medyo may kahabaan din itong post ko. pulot lang sa kabilang forum

------snip-------

from: http://www.bottomlinesecrets.com/blpnet/ar...rticle_id=44248

haba kasi e, pinutol ko lang.

I think dfcsantos can post the link above in the links page. I do not think we can publish something that is not originally ours. IMHO a link to the original document will do.

But, there are some items I do not agree on. Such as the use of fuel additives. Our local gas already has enough. We do not need it.

Every 40,000 Km we have to change all of our fluids so several paragraphs is already covered.

Agree ako sa egg at sa "italian tune up" :D, agree din ako sa warm up, cool down, etc.


*dfcsantos,

can you post Jane's PDF document?

[_Qwerty_]

pag link eh delikado.. baka mawala yung link.. pwede naman siguro post yung text.. i quo quote lang kung saan galing..

[meledson]

pag link eh delikado.. baka mawala yung link.. pwede naman siguro post yung text.. i quo quote lang kung saan galing..

Puwede siguro. Worried lang ako sa IP rights ng author.

[Islaw*Palitaw]

meron na po sir...the model I got naaadjust ang sensitivity....naka-set sya to activate pag may impact lang unlike yung iba na may dumaan lang na motor nag-aactivate na...I specifically instructed the one that installed it na set yung sensitivity pag may impact lang....tapos pagkaset niya tinest niya sa harap namin....if I hit it hindi tumutunog but if my boys hit Vanzie nag rereklamo.....hehehe....

istorbo sa mga kapitbahay kapag super sensitive...dito sa amin may car na super sensitive ayun buong gabi nag-aalarm siya lang ang hindi nagising...by morning paos na yung alarm nya .... dead batt....

good nite po .... early trip tomorrow to DFA .... o pag may mabagal kayong makasabay sa kalye mga kapatid konting pasensya lang malamang ako na yon .... dapat kasi may courtesy lane din for drivers like me


Calling MMMDA!!!

Ano pong model ang pinalagay nyong Code Alarm? CA-310 or CA-330?
Last time kasi akong nagtanong sa labas kung magkano yung CA-310 P4,500 yung huling quote s akin, libre na kabit.

[dfcsantos]

haba kasi e, pinutol ko lang.

I think dfcsantos can post the link above in the links page. I do not think we can publish something that is not originally ours. IMHO a link to the original document will do.

But, there are some items I do not agree on. Such as the use of fuel additives. Our local gas already has enough. We do not need it.

Every 40,000 Km we have to change all of our fluids so several paragraphs is already covered.

Agree ako sa egg at sa "italian tune up" :D, agree din ako sa warm up, cool down, etc.


*dfcsantos,

can you post Jane's PDF document?

Yes Pres., we can have a link.

Alin yung PDF document ni Jane ang i-post ko?

[Islaw*Palitaw]

o nga

Puwede siguro. Worried lang ako sa IP rights ng author.

Oo nga noh? baka ma-demanda pa pati si Master Jedi ng Plaguerism. Nakiki-forum lang naman pati tayo dito sa tsikot. Ingat-ingat na lang po
sa posting, always put the source of information...

[meledson]

Yes Pres., we can have a link.

Alin yung PDF document ni Jane ang i-post ko?

Iyong na e-mal ko sa iyo regarding installation of pull handles.

[CountDigit]

Just want to express my appreciation to the posters in this forum that provided insights, pointed out caveats and gladly shared their concerns to our common interest. These made it easier to plan for and finally own my Chamapagne Avanza 1.5G Manual. Got it from Toyota Quezon Ave. (SA Tristan) through BDO Car loan.

Better FCs, nice blings and long mileage to all!!!

[puroy]

congratz CountDigit and welcome sa club.

[meledson]

Just want to express my appreciation to the posters in this forum that provided insights, pointed out caveats and gladly shared their concerns to our common interest. These made it easier to plan for and finally own my Chamapagne Avanza 1.5G Manual. Got it from Toyota Quezon Ave. (SA Tristan) through BDO Car loan.

Better FCs, nice blings and long mileage to all!!!

Congrats on your new ride.

Welcome to tsikot.

[woohoo]

Better FCs, nice blings and long mileage to all!!!

Good choice, CountDigit! Congrats on your acquisition!

Your next step now is to join an EB of the Avanza Club Pilipinas so you can meet the great people of this thread!

[space invader]

hi fellow avanza owners,

i'm a long time member here at tsikot and a pround owner of avanza 1.3J champagne color from toyota Quezon ave..

i do have some questions regarding my unit.

see pictures attached.





is the highlighted area is sealed talaga for 1.3 J models?
wala kase syang "rubber sensor" which is an electric wiring connecting to the lights, open door warning and alarm..

hindi kase nade-detect ng door nito yung:
1. alarm (even buksan ko sa loob, di mag aactivate yung alarm)
2. open door warning sa gauge
3. when the ceiling lights are set to "door" mode, di sya umi-ilaw.

the front doors and the trunk door are normal.

i'm just curious kung normal ito sa avanza J model???


thanks for your replies. looking forward to join your group!

[meledson]

hi fellow avanza owners,

i'm a long time member here at tsikot and a pround owner of avanza 1.3J champagne color from toyota Quezon ave..

i do have some questions regarding my unit.

see pictures attached.





is the highlighted area is sealed talaga for 1.3 J models?
wala kase syang "rubber sensor" which is an electric wiring connecting to the lights, open door warning and alarm..

hindi kase nade-detect ng door nito yung:
1. alarm (even buksan ko sa loob, di mag aactivate yung alarm)
2. open door warning sa gauge
3. when the ceiling lights are set to "door" mode, di sya umi-ilaw.

the front doors and the trunk door are normal.

i'm just curious kung normal ito sa avanza J model???


thanks for your replies. looking forward to join your group!

Dyan nga nilalagay ang tinatawag namin na door switches.

Karamihan na owners ng Avanza J tulad ko ay nagpakabit ng door switches na ito. Relatively mura naman.

[juanarodriguez]

Ano pong model ang pinalagay nyong Code Alarm? CA-310 or CA-330?
Last time kasi akong nagtanong sa labas kung magkano yung CA-310 P4,500 yung huling quote s akin, libre na kabit.

Sir I got CA100 lang po! ang laking minahal sa casa compared sa labas. Actually, for that price and feature I could get something na mas maganda yun nga lang I was afraid it will void the warranty.

May nakita ako before na LCD na siya Autopage RF-420 LCD Four Chan System it was only selling 5K. This is not available sa casa...yung nakita ko na avail that time with the same feature costs 12k>
whew

Here's the feature of CA 100

• FEATURES :
  
• (2) Two-Button Remote Controls
• Door Lock, Unlock and Trunk Release (neg. output)
• External Starter Interrupt (relay included)
• 110 db Single Tone Siren
• Flashing Parking Lights (relay output)
• Passive / Active Arming
• Passive Door Locks (neg. output)
• On-Board Two-Stage Shock Sensor
• Ignition Controlled Door Locks
• Automatic Rearm
• Remote Control Panic
• Red dashboard LED light
• Remote Car Find mode
• Anti Hi-jack Mode

[space invader]

Dyan nga nilalagay ang tinatawag namin na door switches.

Karamihan na owners ng Avanza J tulad ko ay nagpakabit ng door switches na ito. Relatively mura naman.

thanks sir sa fast reply.. san kayo nagpakabit nitong "door switches"? sa casa ba? how much ang cost? maraming salamat po.

[meledson]

thanks sir sa fast reply.. san kayo nagpakabit nitong "door switches"? sa casa ba? how much ang cost? maraming salamat po.

Iba-iba. mayroong nag DIY, sa banaue, at sa casa.

Sa casa ako nagpakabit, Toyota Ortigas, 1000.00 ang pair kasma na ang installation fee. Kaso last Aug pa. Pero it seems di pa rin nag palit ng price. :D