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  1. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #1
    Disclaimer to my fellow wrenchers: This write-up is for informational purposes only.You may or may not want to follow the procedures i used. Wrench at your own risk necessary safety measures are outlined below.

    Got a little busy just before making a long trip this holiday. I had to replace ball joints on my pickup truck as i do not have any idea when was the last time these BJs were replaced.

    Independent Front Suspension (IFS)
    To give the reader a short introduction, there are different (afaik 3) types of suspension used in the front of vehicles. These are the coil spring, torsion bar and leaf spring suspension. Coil spring is a steel wound to form a helix. The torsion bar spring action is by twisting. Leaf spring is by bending the leaf.

    For the coil spring set-up, there are 2 types. The first one is where an A-arm (wishbone) is used for the upper and lower control arms. This type has 2 connection points each for the upper and lower arms. The 2nd one is the Short-arm-Long-arm (SALA) suspension where the upper control arm is wishbone while the lower arm is singly connected to the frame/crossmember. For these 2 types of coil spring suspension, the coil spring may be placed above the upper control arm and the spring tower (usually the body sheet metal) or the coil is in between the upper and control arms.

    For the SALA suspension, a strut rod (aka brake reaction rod) is used to prevent the lower control arm from moving forward and backward during braking and acceleration. One end is connected to the lower control arm while the other end is on the frame.

    Stabilizer bars (aka roll or sway bars) are utilized to reduce body rolls on turns when a vehicle rounds a curve. When a vehicle turns at a curve at a relatively high speed, the outer spring compresses (lower arm pivots upward) and the inner spring expands (lower arm pivots downward). At this point the outer arm carries also the weight of the inner arm as a countermeasure to body rolls on curves/turns.

    Rubber stops are used to prevent metal-to-metal contact between moving parts.

    For this DIY and car model (mitsubishi might max/dodge ram 50), the SALA suspension is involved with the coil spring in between the control arms with the strut rod in front of the lower control arm.


    Bring out your survival gear

    Special tools include tie rod and ball joint separator tools but the twin hammer method also works


    Jack the car and support the frame and front crossmember with jackstands. I used blocks of wood and fabricated stands. Then put your alligator jack under the lower control arm throught the removal process as a precautionary measure. Remove the brake caliper and tie it securely to something. do not let it hang by the brake hose.


  2. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #2
    Disconnect the tie rod end. The special tool works if you must reuse the rod ends. but again hammering the spindle knuckle (not the stud) to momentarily distort the hole also works.


    Remove the shock absorbers' upper...

    and lower connection

    Note the shock absorber. the body is making contact with the spring or the insulator.


    Remove the stabilizer bar (lower arm and frame connections)

  3. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #3
    Disconnect the strut rod. nut on the front. nuts under the lower arm (rubber stop with integral bolts).




    Now loosen the upper and lower ball joints nuts. Note: Loosen. Do not fully remove them yet as the coil spring is under compression and it may bite you if you suddenly released it. Remember to put your alligator jack beneath the lower control arm also as an added safety measure.


    Use the fork on the upper ball joint (as well as on the lower). Hammer the end of the fork until you hear the joint pop off.

  4. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #4
    With the joints popped off, raise the jack under the lower arm and compress the coil spring just enough to remove the steering knuckle. Then slowly lower the jack to remove the coil spring. For added safety, tie the coil spring to the lower arm.


    Loosen the upper arm bushing bolts so you can move the upper arm easily (for easy access on the upper arm shaft bolts)
    [IMG]

    Next remove the upper arm shaft bolts connecting the upper arm to the frame/spring tower (high tensile bolts class 10).
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Upper arm out


  5. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #5
    Take note of the alignment marks on the upper arm and upper bj. The upper BJs are press fitted on the upper arm and replacement needs to be done at the machine shop using a 5 ton press.


    Remove the lower control arm pivot bolts and nuts



    Lower arm out

    Unbolt the lower ball joint

  6. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #6
    Inspect the coil springs. The right spring is lower by about 1/4 inch. The reason why i found a fabricated spacer (made from agricultural flat belt maybe) above the coil spring insulator. Previous owner might have installed these.



    Here's my pile of parts. Upper arm and lower arm bushings were also replaced at the machine shop using a press machine.


    Install the lower ball joints and torque them to specs.


    I used brand new Class 7 bolts on the lower ball joints

  7. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #7
    and self locking nuts


    Check also on the ball joints as well as the other parts before reassembly


    Install the lower arm


    then the upper arm

  8. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #8
    Tape the insulator to the spring to keep it seated during installation.


    then install the spring assembly back. Tie the spring again to the lower control arm to keep it seated when you raise the jack.


    Raise the jack then install the steering knuckle. don't forget to put on the nuts on the balljoints before you unload the jack.


    Grease up the upper and lower ball joints then try moving the steering knuckle left to right. Alternately "massage" the rubber boot to purge it of air and pump the grease gun. Stop when the boot bulges or when it begins to spit out some grease.


    I used Mag1 yellow mineral lithium base grease NLGI 2. NLGI 3 is too thick for me.

  9. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #9
    Put everything back (strut bar, stabilizer, shock absorberm etc.) and don't forget to torque them to specs. as per this DIY, the bolts that required the highest torque are the upper arm-to-frame bolts (class 10) and the lower ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut.


    Check also your shock absorber for expansion and compression heights as well as the valve rate if they are the same. Purge them of air before installing i.e. compress them upside down then expand in the normal working position about 3x.



    Now would also be the best time to replace all of your tie rod ends (outer and inner) but make sure to measure all of the exposed threads to minimize toe in or toe out.


  10. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #10
    Bounce the front of the vehicle many times then measure the vehicle height....
    [IMG][/IMG]

    ,suspension height.....
    [IMG][/IMG]


    and strut bar settings. The strut bar also doubles as the caster adjustment. Pulling the lower arm towards the front provides for positive caster while the pushing them gives negative caster. Negative caster makes for stability at highway speeds (just like a furniture caster) but gives harder steering.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Camber adjustment is via the upper arm shaft where adjusting shims are put in between the shaft and the frame. Camber is usually the one to blame for uneven tire wear provided all other factors are constant.

    HTH

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Coil Spring IFS DIY (Ball Joints Replacement)