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September 1st, 2016 03:36 PM #31
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September 1st, 2016 04:32 PM #32
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September 18th, 2016 07:17 PM #33If you have maintained the factory anti-freeze coolant quantity and quality that is usually green and containing ethylene glycol then you should not need to do anything. If you have engine temps that appear to be climbing the very first suspect on a 10 year old vehicle is the engine thermostat. If you have an electric cooling fan vs. a belt driven cooling fan the thermal switch in the radiator may not be turning the cooling fan on. That would cause the car to be hot in stop and go traffic but run pretty much at normal temps on the open road.
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September 27th, 2016 05:39 AM #34Bakit most of the cars I've encountered (not mine though) nagkakaroon ng deposits sa ilalim ng radiator kahit coolant ang ginagamit nila?
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September 27th, 2016 07:34 AM #35
Aluminum corrosion. Needs proper flushing and correct interval.
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October 11th, 2016 06:08 AM #36Has anybody tried to DIY flushing the radiator water? Pinagawa ko kasi yung radiator ko kasi nagkaroon ng leak sa gilid. But then yung tubig na nilagay is tap water (wala kasi akong coolant that time). Balak ko sanang iflush lahat ng nilagay nila, then add coolant.
Questions are: is it better to use Prestone Concentrate with water in a 50/50 ratio, or a Prestone ready to use na walang water na ihahalo?
2nd is, kung ano man ang sagot sa itaas, ilang liters ba ang kailangan na ilagay sa radiator and sa reserve?
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October 11th, 2016 09:53 AM #37
1. Either inadequate or too much coolant to water ratio - Best to use pre-mixed jugs to alleviate any mixing errors.
2. Wrong coolant type - Some vehicles will develop leaks at the pump if the coolant is not compatible with the pump seals
3. Using ordinary water (distilled or tap) to top up - Lower boiling point and zero corrosion inhibitors
4. Using the radiator to ground accessories - Will cause electrolysis and promotes corrosion to occur (the corrosion inhibitors will probably be used up by the time you change the coolant)
The engine block and radiator components are one big electrolysis machine, and throughout the life of the vehicle, differential voltages exists between them which causes electrolysis to occur. The voltage can be from static generated by the pump, or ground differential between the engine block ground and the radiator ground. For that matter, even if the cooling system is sealed from oxygen and you put in pure/100% water, a chemical reaction would still occur.
To prevent this, a lot more chemicals are added into a coolant other than ethylene glycol. Equally important as the coolant's heat transfer capability is the corrosion inhibitors. These chemicals serve as sacrificial lambs to significantly slow down the corrosive tendency of the cooling system. So if you did any of the four I mentioned above, you risk causing an imbalance in the chemistry which will usually negate the protective properties of the coolant or even accelerate the corrosion.
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October 11th, 2016 10:50 AM #38DIY radiator flushing, madami tutorial videos sa YouTube. Search mo lang.
Use Premix 50/50 coolant. Ready to use. Makes life simpler.
Iba-iba capacity ng radiator at reserve tank. Magready ka ng 8 liters para safe. If sobra, pwede mo naman gamitin later.
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October 12th, 2016 08:54 PM #39tanong lang how replacement radiators compare to surplus OEM and brand new OEM.
If for example in a 21 year old car nasira na ang radiator, and unlikely na meron pang bagong OEM. Which would be a better choice, The surplus OEM good condition thats also almost 20+ years old or the replacement made in china/taiwan na brand new?
would the brand new replacement last longer than the surplus OEM because its newer? or mas matibay pa rin talaga ang original na good condition
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March 1st, 2017 09:30 AM #40Mostly new CASA OEM parts if not made in China, Taiwan, India, Malaysia or Thaiand, are screen thoroughly from their QA Control. And are mostly expensive sold by the CASA than a replacement OEM one, sold in aftermarket supply store.
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