Modifying A 96 Vti (stock Ph16)

[ssaloon]

here's a simple but informative turbo FAQ. although pang mitsu yung terms, i think it should apply also to other car brands:

1.) Turbo - ideally a T28- T3 sized turbine from Garret or anything similarly sized; this gives good throttle response, minimal lag and enough top-end power for 1.6 liter Mitsu engines, even the MIVEC ones. Bigger 2.0 liter engines can get a size bigger. Can be 2nd-hand / surplus or BNEW, just make sure its still in good working order.

2.) Fuel management - you'll need at least an additional injector controller (AIC) and 1 or 2 injectors with a total flow-rate of 700-1000cc/min. HKS and GReddy make AIC's, you can find various injectors at your favorite surplus shop. Trust me, an Apex'i S-AFC won't hack it here because an S-AFC cannot determine / identify boost. Hence, though you might be able to tune for 100% WOT at any RPM in max boost, any TPS reading in between with varying amounts of boost will cause poor engine performance. An adjustable fuel-pressure regulator won't also be enough in this case since the fuel pressure adjusts linearly, even with boost-dependent fuel pressure regulators. You need to be able to tune based on RPM, boost, TPS and actual engine load. It has to ba an AIC at the very minimum so you can squeeze out the most out of the set-up yet not be wasteful of fuel so it has a constantly safe AFR. Kung sosyal ka like Fatbastard, get a complete piggy-back ECU so pati ignition map / timing pwede galawin.

3.) Intercooler - any will do but ideally find something that has a large surface area even if the core isn't as thick. Surface area is more important especially in low-boost applications on relatively high-comp engines (for turbo). Not to mention it adds more visual aggression on your car if there's a huge i/c core jutting out of your bumper.

4.) Manifold and i/c piping - this is critical if you want a really nice and fast spooling turbo set-up. I've seen so many poorly designed and poorly built manifolds from both custom-fabricators AND big-name brands.

5.) Downpipe - you don't need to get a full exhaust system (though it is much better if you do so), you'll need to mate the turbo with the current exhaust that you have.

6.) Uprated clutch for manual transmissions - the stock clutch won't hack it here as well, you'll just spin the clutch. Don't ask me how I know. Traumatic explaining to an irate customer that his car makes 2x more power than his clutch can handle.

7.) Additional fuel lines for the AIC, oil lines for the turbo and water cooling lines (this depends on the turbo you plan to use if its water cooled as well).

8.) Highest octane fuel you can get (Petron BLAZE) and sparkplug 1-2 heat ranges colder.

9.) Boost gauge, a must in any turbocharged car.

10.) Proper tuning - without this, you just literally set on fire your hard-earned money

Why did I post all these? The cheapest way to building a turbo set-up is if you buy most of the expensive parts yourself such as the turbo, i/c and fuel management. Ask nalang what your tuner / builder wants you to get because if hindi maganda kinalabasan ng set-up mo, the tuner / builder will always say that's because the parts you got are not what he wanted / needed in building the best turbo set-up

Yung gagawin nalang ng shop is the manifold and i/c pipings plus installing / connecting everything else together.

Its also important to upgrade the brakes and suspension if you're adding more power.

posted by Sir Botchi of ERL Motorwerx.

[m_ron]

Turbo on a budget.
If you can find a turbo manifold for your engine you're good to go.Find a turbo that will fit your turbo manifold.upgrade your pipings to 3".get an fMIC(intercooler)wideband 02 sensor,boost gauge,safc engine management,replace injectors. STay from 5psi boost all the time so you're engine will not kaboom.

[niky]

Well, there you go... a low pressure turbo set-up is more cost effective than simple IHE and NA (naturally aspirated, or non-turbo) mods. But the difference is that you'll have to put all the money down in one shot. You can do it for 30k on the cheap, but within 60k, with good parts sourcing, you can have a set-up that will be either dyno-tuned or road-tuned, and will be pretty reliable.

A low pressure set-up, with power at 160 hp or so, shouldn't stress your engine un-naturally.

[ssaloon]

or if you're not in a hurry, just by parts 1 by 1... then when you have everything sourced out, let the fun begin!