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Verified Tsikot Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
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- 60
January 27th, 2008 10:55 PM #11Snowbound and userfriendly...
Thanks for the inputs. I'll think about changing to kia carb (if I can't be able to change my car within 6-12 months... hehe). I actually heard about that before. In converting to lpg, my concern would be the availability of gas stations in places I would be going. I'm in real estate brokerage so I sometimes drive all the way to nearby provinces...
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January 27th, 2008 11:13 PM #12
> Just a little information about EFI and Carbs engine car
CARBS vs. EFI
The real question: Which is better? Well, this depends on a lot of factors. For one, what do you do with, and how do you drive your car? Obviously, if you race a vehicle professionally in which rules are involved that restrict the type of fuel delivery that can be used, you have little choice.
The age old question has always been disputed: Which makes more power? Well, this too is a good question. Carb enthusiasts argue that carbs make more power over port injection because the fuel helps "cool" the intake manifold. If this were true, what about Throttle Body Injection? I have seen little evidence to prove that carbs out-perform port efi on identical engines and vice-versa in controlled conditions.
Again, your choice depends on what you plan to do with your vehicle. In my opinion, carbs work great in ideal weather conditions and areas of the country which see little climate changes. Unfortunately, there are rarely 'ideal' conditions present. This leaves you to change jets and tune your carburetor to the changing weather conditions as the day goes on. On the other hand, EFI systems automatically compensate for changing conditions.
What about cost? Well, here again, it depends on what you want to do with your vehicle. If you don't mind drivability problems when the engine is cold or the humidity is high then carbs are for you. Simply put, no carburetor can do what a feedback efi system can do compared by cost. I have never seen a carb that you didn't have to tune to offset changing conditions. These changes require carb disassembly in most cases. EFI can compensate for most any change in weather conditions. Those that cannot be automatically compensated for by the ECM can be easily reprogrammed by PC or Laptop computer in just minutes without getting your hands dirty.
But carbs only cost $200 compared to $1000 for EFI system and programming hardware/software. Where are the savings? Well, $200 is just the initial cost of the average carb, new. Later, jet kits, gaskets, various diaphrams, and springs are required to maintain and tune carbs. Most efi systems have a highway mode operation in which fuel can be saved during periods of cruising that don't effect any other driving period. Personally, I have experienced a 4+mpg gain in fuel mileage utilizing such "built-in" features of GM EFI systems. Cost savings are self-explanitory, not to mention the time you save by simply sitting at a computer to tune your car instead of disassembling a carb.
What kind of features does EFI offer over carbs? Well, simply put: a carburetor just sits there. A typical GM EFI computer system can be programmed in the following areas:
Fuel Delivery based on MAP (Manifold Pressure), TP (Throttle Position), RPM, ECT (coolant temp)
Spark Advance based on MAP, TP, RPM, ECT
TCC Lockup characteristics based on TP, VSS (Vehicle Speed)
Highway Mode Air/Fuel Ratio based on MAP, TP, VSS, Time
Open Loop A/F Ratio and Power Enrichment Changes
Closed Loop parameters
Manifold Air Temp influence on timing and A/F ratio
Idle Speed based on ECT
Transmission Shift firmness and Shift Points (electronic automatics)
Cooling Fan(s) Operation besed on ECT, VSS
Trouble Code Parameters
and Much, Much More....
The Facts:
Carbs EFI
Winter Drivability: Poor Excellent
Summer Drivebility: Excellent Excellent
Skill Level Required: Average Advanced
Initial Cost: $200+ $1000 (typical)
Long-term cost: High Manageable
Performance: Good Better
Turbo-compatible: Poor Excellent
Supercharger-compatible: Depends Excellent
N2O-compatible: Good Good
Emissions Friendly: Poor Excellent
"Wow" Factor: Fair Excellent
Reliability: Good Excellent
Fuel Distribution: Fair Excellent (Port and Direct)
Intake Configurations: Limited Unlimited (Port and Direct)
Pros: 6 12
Cons: 8 2
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January 27th, 2008 11:29 PM #13
speaking of engine swaps here.. pwede kaya mga 1zz-fe sa mga lumang corollas (ae92, 101 & 111)? i mean kung pwede kasi dba mas tipid sa gas yun kasi lighter ang mga lumang model ng corollas by maybe 100-200kgs.
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January 28th, 2008 10:05 AM #14
IMO, the 1ZZ & 2ZZ swaps for the AE92, 101 & 111 is impractical and expensive (its the same as the K series swap on Honda's, except that the 1ZZ or 2ZZ swap has no aftermarket support and its not common *not unlike the K series swap which is pretty common, very well documented and has a huge aftermarket support.*
anywayz, for the old skool Corollas (AE86, 92, 101 & 111) the best engine to swap is no doubt the 4A-GE 20 valve (silver or black top). but if you want an engine that is both economical and at the same time has a decent amount of power, then just swap a complete 4A-FE (2nd generation) or even a 7A-FE (or you can do the 7A-GE hybrid.. and I know how to do it! lolz!) and keep it stock.
aite, peace.
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