Nissan Frontier Navarra [ARCHIVED]

[mikko_018]

Actually bro possible na mas maganda ang Motul, Group V (ester based) na kasi ito compared to Mobil1 Group III/IV (refined mineral/PAO). Ang tanong lang kung mas maganda ang additive pack ng Mobil1, ang mga Group V kasi di yata kumakapit masyado ang mga add pack.

Mas gusto ko na talaga synthetic. Sa start up mas mabilis mag warm up at mas pino tunog ng makina dun sa isa kong pickup. Yung D21 ko kasi religiously changed ang oil with mineral (Shell) every 5Tkm, medyo humina na hatak at 250TKm. Masyado ba akong nageexpect? Hehe.

Sana pumayag na sa Synthetic ang casa.

agree ako, mas pino ang tunog ng makina... parang kotse hawak ko nung nagswitch ako sa Motul, napakatahimik...
sir ano po yung additive pack? ano effect as makina?
250k kms? wow maaabot ko siguro yan in 10 years...

kailangan lang siguro ng konti pang panliligaw sa mga casa... or makakatulong siguro kung club ang kakausap...

just thinking out loud..

[Ifugi_Navi]

its common thing to do sir, pag humingi nang tulong, tutulungan...

i can recommend a shop for him, to fix the problem..
since walang casa dito sa cotabato...

Ale eh yan lang naman sir ang inaantay kong sagot eh. Napakabait mo naman pala eh, yan ang tunay na pinoy eh. Saludo ako sa iyo sir eh.

Ala eh yung iba kasi may nalalaman pa kasing "word war - word war" "maybe" na sagot eh.

Op-op-op-ops ale eh siya nga pala eh, ang hahabol at magre-react pa rin nga pala eh panget na lasing pa.

Ala eh hanggang dito na muna po ako eh. Eh, susulpot na lang po ulit eh pag may nasense po akong manggugulo ulit ng navara eh. Ala eh back to technical na po tayo eh.

[Wh1stl3r]

agree ako, mas pino ang tunog ng makina... parang kotse hawak ko nung nagswitch ako sa Motul, napakatahimik...
sir ano po yung additive pack? ano effect as makina?
250k kms? wow maaabot ko siguro yan in 10 years...

kailangan lang siguro ng konti pang panliligaw sa mga casa... or makakatulong siguro kung club ang kakausap...

just thinking out loud..

Yup, eksakto. 250TKms on my D21 in 10 years. Di nga makapaniwala yung bumili, hehe.

Sabi ng uncle ko na Mech Engr. yung quality ng additive pack daw ang mas importante kesa sa quality ng base oil. Yun kasi ang nagdedetermine ng wear resistance, cleaning capability at viscosity ng oil (when hot or cold). Ang formula daw kasi ng modern engine oils is Base Oil + Additive Pack. Kaya di raw maganda bumili ng mga aftermarket oil additives, baka kasi mag interfere sa mga add pack na dati nang nakalagay sa mga engine oils.

Ako naman bahala na mga engineer kung ano ba talaga mas maganda, ang importante na feel ko talaga sa other pickup ko yung difference. Nawala yung white smoke during cold starts.

Wala pa naman akong kilalang nagreklamo sa Motul. Pero mahal nun ha, pag ako gumamit nun sasabihin ng girlfriend ko mas mahal ko pa pickup ko haha.

[mikko_018]

Yup, eksakto. 250TKms on my D21 in 10 years. Di nga makapaniwala yung bumili, hehe.

Sabi ng uncle ko na Mech Engr. yung quality ng additive pack daw ang mas importante kesa sa quality ng base oil. Yun kasi ang nagdedetermine ng wear resistance, cleaning capability at viscosity ng oil (when hot or cold). Ang formula daw kasi ng modern engine oils is Base Oil + Additive Pack. Kaya di raw maganda bumili ng mga aftermarket oil additives, baka kasi mag interfere sa mga add pack na dati nang nakalagay sa mga engine oils.

Ako naman bahala na mga engineer kung ano ba talaga mas maganda, ang importante na feel ko talaga sa other pickup ko yung difference. Nawala yung white smoke during cold starts.

Wala pa naman akong kilalang nagreklamo sa Motul. Pero mahal nun ha, pag ako gumamit nun sasabihin ng girlfriend ko mas mahal ko pa pickup ko haha.

sir nandito ka ulit sa kabilang thread... sinusundan kita hahaha

+1 here sir... gusto ko yung 2nd and 3rd paragraph ng post mo... (nakakarelate)

kuha ko 400 per liter... 400 x 8 = 3200

di masyadong masakit kahit every 3 months or 10,000kms ang change oil...

mas mura compared sa oil sa casa, better performance pa...

kailangan lang talaga ng konti pang effort, papayag din mga casang yan...

[OJ213]

Had my 10k Pms 3 weeks ago sa Casa, Motul crdi pinalagay ko cost me 700/ltr. medyo mabigat nga compared to the usual helix ng Casa

all i can say is very obvious ang difference, engine is more quiet , more quick on response and magaan ang pakiramdam, quicker warm ups

[loki_chaos]

Sir ako nagsabi kay mikko regarding yung Mobil1 oil sa macapagal, kung familiar ka sa place, you can see the yakimix and kingone food chain eat all you can. dun may mga kahilera nyang store sa loob may mga PX goods may tinda silang Mobil1 oil any type pati pang transmission.. check mo nalang dun sir. kaya lang medyo mabilis maubos minsan yung stock nila.

alright! thanks! tingnan tingnan ko yung lugar when i pass by macapagal... baka sa 20k pms ako mag change to synthetic... at least alam ko na kung san titingin ng medyo murang synth oil...

[julezjampad]

hahaha... ibang klaseng kaguluhan yung isang yun ah... kakaiba at kakatawa yung mga banat…

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BTW, nice topic ito ah... tungkol sa engine oil...

yun din ang sabi sa akin ng casa, they do not recommend synthetic oil... last time i asked why, their answer goes around, yun at yun pa rin ang sagot... "yun ang sabi ng planta sir eh"... hanggang semi synthetic lang daw ang pwede…

may question lang po ako? where does those oil sludge comes from? Di ba sludge comes from the oil itself and a product of the following factors: heat, acid, fuel, dirt, water, blow by gases, etc…. synthetic and conventional oils are of the same base oils and both have additives… it’s just that the oil manufacturers are putting more quantity of additives to the synthetic oils to fight the said factors causing sludge… ang di lang natin alam kaya kaya nung oil filter natin tumagal dun sa interval ng change ng synthetic oil? Sabagay pwede naman yata palitan oil filter natin in between oil change and top up na lang…

so why not sysnthetic oil? siguro para mas kikita ang casa, mas madalas kaya change oil pag conventional oil gamit mo… hehehe…

i’ll also try synthetic pag 20k na rin nav ko…

[ryan824]

good day mga sirs! got my plate number and sticker for almost 3 weeks in waiting.. akala ko me problem sa LTO regarding sa issuance of plate and stickers..but got mine ahead. i think depende sa casa na ata...
Been testing the capability of my navara and it exceeds my expectations.. wala ako masabi sa lakas nya... but my FC got a poor result...hehehe!!! more power to navs owners....

[mikko_018]

good day mga sirs! got my plate number and sticker for almost 3 weeks in waiting.. akala ko me problem sa LTO regarding sa issuance of plate and stickers..but got mine ahead. i think depende sa casa na ata...
Been testing the capability of my navara and it exceeds my expectations.. wala ako masabi sa lakas nya... but my FC got a poor result...hehehe!!! more power to navs owners....:

Pilipinas nga talaga... walang equality... kailangan laging may lagay...

good day to all!!!

PS: regarding sa synthetic oil... it should meet your expectations because you deserve it... ang mahal mahal ng langis kaya mas maganda dapat ang performance...

[Wh1stl3r]

Sir jules,
From Wiki:
The American Petroleum Institute (API) sets minimum for performance standards for lubricants. Motor oil is used for the lubrication, cooling, and cleaning of internal combustion engines. Motor oil may be composed of a lubricant base stock only in the case of non-detergent oil, or a lubricant base stock plus additives to improve the oil's detergency, extreme pressure performance, and ability to inhibit corrosion of engine parts. Lubricant base stocks are categorized into five groups by the API. Group I base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum which is further refined with solvent extraction processes to improve certain properties such as oxidation resistance and to remove wax. Group II base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum that has been hydrocracked to further refine and purify it. Group III base stocks have similar characteristics to Group II base stocks, except that Group III base stocks have higher viscosity indexes. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks, or of hydroisomerized slack wax, (a byproduct of the dewaxing process). Group IV base stock are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). Group V is a catch-all group for any base stock not described by Groups I to IV. Examples of group V base stocks include polyol esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAG oils), and perfluoropolyalkylethers (PFPAEs). Groups I and II are commonly referred to as mineral oils, group III is typically referred to as synthetic (except in Germany and Japan, where they must not be called synthetic) and group IV is a synthetic oil. Group V base oils are so diverse that there is no catch-all description.

Sa pagkaintindi ko, yung mineral oils (groups I to III) ang madaling magcause ng sludge. Synthetics that fall into groups IV and V should be better at protecting against oxidation and sludge.

I don't get how using a synthetic oil that follows the manual's recommended API and SAE rating would void the warranty. If the casa is concerned about losing sales due to owner provided oil, I would gladly pay them their markup.