Pajero (Subic converted): Any good?

[jaydel]

tanong ko lang kung how much ang going price of 5-door pajero exceed nowadays. Where can you find bargains for this? thanks

[garyq]

500-up for the 2.5L. High 500 sa 2.8L. Bro pag Subic units ingat sa bargain ko baka pangit pagka-convert. If you're not mechanically inclined then problema yan.

[chain]

pare read this. I posted this in another thread before sa ibang forum...

If you're getting a Unit in Subic, yung mga SUV's, kung maswerte ka, look for the ones na Locator Warehouse owner mismo ang nag-import or namili.. sometimes, nag-iimport sila for their own use and more often than not, mas maganda ang quality na vehicle. (if ibebenta nila...)

if SUV yan, chances are converted yan. pero pag Passenger Van naman, ask them kung Korea galing. (no more conversion needed kasi left-hand drive... so wala nang bukasan) pero you better pick carefully kasi madaling i-deceive ang buyer (lalo na pag sabihing hindi na converted.

it doesnt hurt to bring your own mechanic pag kukuha ka. and if bibili ka na, make sure to deal directly with the people involved. (marami kasing middlemen)

ask them if the taxes are paid. (malaking delay 'to. believe me) ask about the Registration Process and how long it would take.

sadly, some people expect these units to be almost brand-new in terms of performance and quality... kaya nga second-hand. dinala na lang dito yan para gawaan ng paraan and syempre, may mga problema na yan in one way or another..


hmmm... I'll post some more soon. Nothing more comes to mind as of yet.

cheers!

[chain]

Oh I forgot to mention. tips ko lang:

1) when buying kausapin mo mismo yung locator warehouse owner kasi i'm sure pinakamababa ang presyo nyan. Sila kasi mismo ang nagpaparating. No Royalties, walang ride-ons.. and you're talking to the Owner himself. Rekta ka na.

2) Silipin mo kagad ang dash mo kung pantay. kung shoddy ang workmanship, puputok ang masilya nyan. you'll notice na lang after a few months. mahirap nang maghabol. same goes for the body as well.

3) check the wirings. 'nuff said.

4) check the tires. some warehouse owners have this habit of palit gulong.

5) check the placement of the steering wheel kung converted.

anyway, I'll try to post more. nothing comes to mind pa as of yet.

[pparado]

more...more!

[Mcmanster]

A run around to emision test reqmnts is to restrict the fuel delivery system whihc is being done by auctioneers > check this out from a calibartion center.
thx

I have the same problem with my gen 2.5 pero we bought it here (Citimotors). I just brought it to the casa this morning because I really got irritated by it's heave acceleration. I have been using it for years already and I just felt the sudden heaviness in acceleration a few months ago. Minsan malakas hatak, minsan naman hindi. At the casa after they checked it, they said di daw nag mamanifest yung problem and everything is okay naman daw. My fuel gauge also is not accurate, I noticed it a few months back together with my rpm display which reads zero even if the engine is running and usually fluctuates while I'm driving at constant acceleration.

[[archie]]

sorry to dig up an old thread pero gusto ko lang magtanong kasi wala ako alam sa mga import pajero:

1. lagi ba nahuhuli ng MMDA dahil sa plates?
2. would manila plates fair any better?
3. ano common problems nito?
4. fuel consumption?
5. parts availability?
6. sulit ba?
7. magkano bentahan nito ngayon?
8. may kilala ko malupit na mech na pwede tumingin ng pagkaconvert kaso i also wanna know opinions from others.
9. any other comments?
10. wala ako alam sa diesel, kaya gusto ko magkaroon and matuto. is this a good platform to start?

sana po nakareply yung mga malulupit sa pajero lalo na yung mga owners of these models.

[[archie]]

anyone?

[Ry_Tower]

[SIZE=2]H[/SIZE][SIZE=2]ere is my advice reg subic converted. just bought one myself. (gen2 Paj 4m40 matic). the best pa din kpg manual nabili mo. if matic kc, medyo mataas FC and mas maselan.[/SIZE]



Tips in checking a Car
a. Chassis - Look for corrosion, both outside structures and with flashlight as far as you can see inside the chassis (use ventilation holes as looking points). If chassis is in ok condition, then continue checking
*hint: flashlight, screwdriver and little hammer are useful tools when digging out condition of chassis*

b. Body - Look corrosion around windshield and front of the car. Also lower parts of doors are to be checked as well as lower rear section from end of the car.
If you suspect that any parts are repaired with moldings paste instead of welded metal, use light magnet to find this out. Magnet will not stick to molding paste, but will stay on painted metal. At same time check lower parts of each doors, also boot door. Same thing with wheel arches, there may be some corrosion and it's a usual place where it begins to corrode. Bottom of the car we check later on.

c. Motor
- general overview first, how does engine room look like (clean or dirty, oily). Test that all belts are tight and batteries are well mounted onto their place and nothing is loose or broken (of course when working at engineroom engine must be off)
- Start engine and listen how it sounds, how does engine sound at idle run, normal driving round revs and also engine must reach max. revs. No "alarming" extra noises allowed or unsteady running. Wait for 5 mins while reviewing the headlights, signal lights, horns, power windows, locks and power side view mirror. After 5 mins (and engine still running, rev the engine to 3,500 rpm for 30 seconds and then open the engine oil cap to check if there is back-pressure or if oil is coming-out of the engine – a sign of engine overhauling…BAD omen. Should automatically ask for 20-25K DISCOUNT due to needed repair.

d. Turbo - must not leak oil, also make sure that over boost valve and intake manifolds works properly. If turbo leaks oil, it's broken.

e. 4X4 Gearbox - Transfer gear have next selective areas. 2H, this is normal rear-wheel driving mode, 4H, this is normal 4-wheel driving mode, 4L, this is low range driving mode which is meant to use only off road use or when needing most pulling or towing capability. Rear axle have lock which can be used only when 4L is connected.
Test drive the car and test all driving modes and that rear axle lock is operational. Test 4-wheel drive modes on non gripping surface, snowy, muddy or icy field. Differences on 4-wheel drives come out most easily when testing on non grip surfaces.
During test drive no alarming noises must be heard and both gearbox and transfer box operation must be fluent.
STOP THE ENGINE.
f. Axles, joints, bearings etc.
i. starting from the front of the car - Wheel bearings, no vertical or horizontal loose movement is allowed. Also no "squeaky" sounds are accepted. Those are sure marks that bearing are broken and need replacing. Also broken bearing is serious risk at traffic, if bearing(s) broke, lost of control of vehicle is certain.
ii. Ball joints, driving stabilizers and their mounting must be firm and in condition, these also affect to handling and driving, check these also very carefully.
iii. Check that spring mounting points are in condition; most likely you will find corrosion here, slight corrosion is normal but metal under corrosion must be in good firm condition, also look at shock absorbers mounting and their condition. These also affect to both driving stability and are a matter of security, don't overlook these.

Check that ball joints don't have loose movement, if they are loose then they are in need of replacing, ball joints can be re-greased and if greasing has been ignored then joints will worn out quicker. There are five greasing point at front, two upper steering joints, L and R side, lower steering joint greasing points L and R side also and steering arms greasing joint. Those nibbles are meant to grease by owner/at service. Greasing is at minimum of two times a year.
Look that front drive axles protective rubbers are not broken, if they are broken then there is a big risk that front drive shafts will broke soon because sand, or any dirt will break drives there.

g. Drive shafts

Check that cross joints are tight and well greased. If they are loose or even broke then they are in replaceable condition. There are greasing nibbles also at drive shafts and shafts are meant to be greased. Greasing minimum two times a year.
*hint: when greasing, push grease until it comes out by itself, overcoming means that there is enough grease for the moment*

Drive shaft can have loose turning radius movement 1/16 parts of a turn, this is approx. 22 degrees. This is measured when wheel are not at air, gear neutral and turning drive shaft, when gearbox and rear axle starts to resist loose movement stop turning, this loose movement between resisting points is 22 degrees, no more.


Tires - dpat pareho yung 5 rims at gulong. minsan hindi eh. (gaya sa akin kaya hintay pa me nung correct spare tire at rim).


RE-START THE ENGINE (and OPERATE THE AIRCON)
h. Brakes
- they must work perfectly and nothing less is acceptable. Look the condition of brake pads and discs, if they are badly worn they need to be replaced. Rear discs must not be rusty, if they are then rear brake saddles are not in condition.

Test handbrake and that its operational, this is simple. Drive car to 30 degree slope, push brakes and pull handbrake 5-7 clicks, then release footbrake and car must stay on place just with handbrake, if not, then handbrake in not working ok, simple as that.

i. Checking the conversion - paano i-check? visually, dashboard. check mo kung putol o hindi.(if hindi putol, much better siyempre) Check mo pitman arm, tie rods at ang ilalim kung may putol at welding(Kapag walang putol, malinis at good conversion yan).

j. Air condition system – check if it’s working properly, is cooling well. The DUAL aircon in the 2nd row must be working properly as well. (if not, 3-5K discount uli since ipapagawa ito).

(Minor things for converted cars)
k. LASTLY - other things to watch for converted cars would be side mirrors (replace or realign) position of wiper stalks and headlights stalks are interchanged, wipers on reverse orientation, sunroof/moonroof tends to leak, shifters are on a reversed position, handbrake on the passenger side, no foot vents on aircon, power window switches are interchanged, dashboard have cracks, engine number on the driver side (which makes it harder to get the stencil for registration)