Results 2,261 to 2,270 of 2820
-
Tsikot Member Rank 2
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Posts
- 4,726
July 10th, 2008 10:11 PM #2261EGR acts only as a "fire extinguisher" when the combustion chamber gets too hot and become too rich in oxygen due to TURBO, EGR will lower the temperature by introducing inert gas (exhaust gas) to prevent nox.. its ok to block it off! Its just there for good emissions but the negative result is the "gunk" formation in your intake manifold.. You may also opt for the Alcohol injection as the best replacement for the EGR function..see threads relating to this
for the oil catcher, i've done that with my carnival before and reduced more than 50% of the oil from the engine PCV to the intake... I fabricated an OIL MIST separator..
your options can be,
lay the PCV tube going down the engine as draft tube.. this way you will let blow by gases (exhaust gas past piston rings) to the environment, the PCV tube is connected to the intake to re-circulate these blow-by gases. If the PCV tube is laid down you will notice exhaust smoke coming out of the tube, this is normal. You will also notice the oil will be dripping in the ground due to OIL MIST from the engine you may need provide an "oil catcher". Also don't forget to block where the PCV tube connected in the intake..
or you may fabricate an "oil separator" in between the PCV tube. But this will not be 100% to filter the "OIL MIST" but this way you can retain the original design and have the blow by gases recirculated
-
Verified Tsikot Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Posts
- 5
July 11th, 2008 08:06 AM #2262[SIZE=3]Thank you. I figured as much.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Sir FCII: ifyou look under the steering wheel and see what the knob is for, you will see that it is only a cable (like the Bicycle’s gear lever) and all it has in the other end is a tenon pushing on the accelerator pedal. I was bothered with it too so I looked it up. It turns out that they just use it at countries with winter seasons to make the engine heat up quickly when it is extremely cold. [/SIZE]
-
Verified Tsikot Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Posts
- 18
July 14th, 2008 02:11 PM #2263hi sir yapoy86,
can you send pictures of your oil mist separator please.
thanks a lot.
-
July 15th, 2008 06:47 PM #2264
sir yapoy: I can imagine the oil separator is the best way to go. Is it the same as the "catch can?" As far as I can remember sir Rodski was really interested in this. I think he also said that the Gen I Carnival did not have an EGR.
It is my guess then that it was not really part of the original engine design and was just added later on to perhaps meet some strict foreign emission standards.
I have read in some forums who advocate EGR block-off, that the EGR is really counter to achieving peak performance. Can you enlighten me on this. They argued that the inert gas reintroduced into the combustion chamber actually takes up valuable space since it does not burn anymore. So here is your engine with a turbo designed to ram as much air into the chamber and your torque directly proportional to the size of the engine's displacement, and then there is the EGR doing exactly the opposite of that.
I am also not clear on the NOx (or Nitrogen Oxide - I hope I got it right) emmision contributing to pollution by encouraging smog. But the gunk accumulated in the Manifold seem to make the Exhaust release more particulates in the air. I am just assuming that the environment is better off with more NOx than particulates (and maybe carbon) especially in our tropical climate.
Some States in the US require an EGR and some don't. I think it is also related on the altitude and weather. Maybe our country doesn't need and EGR that much.
What do you guys think?
-
July 15th, 2008 06:48 PM #2265
sir yapoy: I can imagine the oil separator is the best way to go. Is it the same as the "catch can?" As far as I can remember sir Rodski was really interested in this. I think he also said that the Gen I Carnival did not have an EGR.
It is my guess then that it was not really part of the original engine design and was just added later on to perhaps meet some strict foreign emission standards.
I have read in some forums who advocate EGR block-off, that the EGR is really counter to achieving peak performance. Can you enlighten me on this. They argued that the inert gas reintroduced into the combustion chamber actually takes up valuable space since it does not burn anymore. So here is your engine with a turbo designed to ram as much air into the chamber and your torque directly proportional to the size of the engine's displacement, and then there is the EGR doing exactly the opposite of that.
I am also not clear on the NOx (or Nitrogen Oxide - I hope I got it right) emmision contributing to pollution by encouraging smog. But the gunk accumulated in the Manifold seem to make the Exhaust release more particulates in the air. I am just assuming that the environment is better off with more NOx than particulates (and maybe carbon) especially in our tropical climate.
Some States in the US require an EGR and some don't. I think it is also related on the altitude and weather. Maybe our country doesn't need and EGR that much.
What do you guys think?
-
Tsikot Member Rank 2
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Posts
- 4,726
July 17th, 2008 01:16 PM #2266when diesel engines under high temperature and rich oxygen is introduced to the combustion chamber by the turbo, NOX will be produced...which is bad for the environment...EGR will introduce the inert gas to control the combustion.. EGR can also protect the engine from overheating since it will control the combustion...
heres an example.. sa bahay.. pag nag iihaw kayo ng bbq, when you use electric fan (turbo) lalong mag aapoy yung uling di ba?? so wiwisikan nyo ng tubig para ma control, same with EGR CO yung ihahalo nya sa turbo para ma kontrol yung apoy ng uling...
ang problem lang is carbon deposit mixed with oil mist coming from PCV then you have gunk
yung sa alcohol / water injection naman same principles pero wala yung negative effect ng gunk... dagdag boost pa kasi diesel will burn much more but of course dun sa tamang gauge lang kasi pag sobra makakasira din ng engine
heres an example... pag nag prito kayo sa bahay try nyo painitin ng husto yung mantika (diesel oil) then pag mainit na mainit na wisikan nyo ng tubig.. 100% liliyab yan na parang ball of fire..
eto yung sample nung ginawa ko sa carnival ko dati...
make sure na in between sya nung PCV tube para mas maging efficient..
yung blowby gases visible pa din yan kasi unlike gas engines, hindi kalakasan yung vacuum na create ng turbo during idling
-
July 17th, 2008 02:37 PM #2267
-
July 19th, 2008 10:20 AM #2268
yapoy,
thanks. kala ko kasi mali ang pagkakakabit nila o kaya ni "rewire" nila ung radiator fan ko. nagtataka kasi ako at magkasabay sila umandar ng a/c condenser. turns out ganun din pala ang sa inyo. I'm relieved.
naipa check ko na ung thermostat. buti na lang ok pa daw. whew.
-
Tsikot Member Rank 3
- Join Date
- Aug 2003
- Posts
- 1,251
July 19th, 2008 10:15 PM #2269good to see the thread alive and thriving. Nakakatakot lang ang mga nababasa ko, dami pa rin problema ang ride natin.
About the aircon, try to check the auxilliary fan. I really thought it was time to have it charged with new freon or it had a leak. I don't remember the last time I had the aircon fixed for my 2003 unit. But the shop said sira lang ang auxillary, and the cause of the aircon losing its cold, or eventually not being cold. I reported on this thread before to try to turn the thermostat back and forth, sometimes it will make the cold air come back. Maybe it just helped trigger the auxillary fan to switch back on.
-
Verified Tsikot Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2004
- Posts
- 290
July 21st, 2008 02:21 AM #2270
hi sir to answer your inquiries:
1.i presume the loss of cooling is due to a freon leak. you mentioned that your a/c guy checked the evaporators and condenser. did he do a leak test on the comprssor too? what about the a/c freon lines leading to the rear condenser. did he leak test them too? if not, best to have them checked. in dond this. best to have him flush the whole system. then when he assembles everything, change the filter dryer. you may use your original expansion valves or replace them if nessesary. also make sure that all the o-ring are new.
2. the main fan uses 4 wires. i was also not convinced that the main fan was broken cuz it would run when i connected two terminals to the battery. but it still would not go on automatically. i tried with a new fan. and the new fan worked. so i guess my old one was defective already. btw, the new fan cost around 3.5k in goodgear, pasay.
3. that phenomenon is not normal. try this test. first thing in the morning when the engine is cold. open the engine hood and take off the radiator cap. then have someone start the engine. observe if there will be a gush of water coming out to the radiator as soon as the engine starts. if so, then you have a possible cylinder head gasket leak. or worse a cylinder head crack. only way to fix this is to do a top overhaul. if the water does not gush out but only drips out due to the expanding water.then its ok. but if it is a cylinder head or gasket problem you would notice that your radiator would alway be needing h2o and the reservoir alway full of h2o.
a h2o leak is the only explanation why your reservoir runs out of water. check all water hoses (radiator and heater hoses) are in good condition and don't have any signs of leaks. check the radiator too. i just don't know how to check if the fuel pump is leaking.FYI, you will not see the lower radiator hose from the top on the engine compartment. you will have to crawl under to check it. i replaced mine last week. cost me 300 for the lower radiator hose.