Your car's Engine oil

[papi smith]

I tend to research the oils I am using or about to use so I can have a baseline on performance.
Sometimes it is indicated nga in the label kung PAO or Group IV based yung particular FS oil.
Otherwise, try to download the datasheet... availability of which is a plus point for me.
I mean, if they care to indicate the pertinent details of their oil in their website or pdf then they do care about their oil also.

One of the indicators is of course the price. PAO based tend to be at least 2.5k/gal. or higher.
Group III based "fully synthetic" or "synthetic technology" oils are around 1.5k to 2.3k for the same size container.
Of course, these are just rules of thumb as there's plenty of dubious oil vendors also, marketing their product fraudulently.

Again, kung may pera ka naman you do buy peace of mind if you use PAO based FS oil from legit oil brands.
Otherwise, as I've said the enemy of our engine is dirt and moisture so invest in a good compatible oil filter instead.

There's a particular engine oil brand that would probably be at the tailend of my list.
But I wouldn't say its performance is bad or the brand itself is dubious.
It can probably last a year especially with a good filter if you are so inclined.
It's more of their dubious marketing claims and hard sell that is a major turn off.
Especially their independent sellers who kept pushing it in most forums and message boards.
I see them as detrimental to educating motorists on a science based approach to the subject.

Pertua?

Have you researched on oil life also? I don't know if ATF properties are the same as oil, but I have 1 unopened and half opened bottle sitting on my garage for 2 years now, it's Honda DW-1. I bought 4 liters thinking it was the same capacity of my oil. Can I still use it now? Thanks.

[Dr.Kamiya]

For road use I don't think the differences are noticeable. A few oil changes ago I put HKS Super Racing but schedule prevented me from doing any track days. Sayang lang yung oil since it got changed out at 5k kms din.

For track you'll probably see it on the oil temps. For track I've had friends say that Motul 300V heats up faster than LiquiMoly or Royal Purple. Something like a few laps in with the same weight oil their cars will be approaching 150C with Motul, but can lap at 120-130C all day on RP/LM.

[Vodka]

Yes. PAO is overrated.

Synthetic, full synthetic, fully synthetic... etc... even if they're half-true, even if these use mineral-based oils (highly-refined at that), these will still be several notches better than most conventional oils. Cheap doesn't mean it's crap. Just saying.

so you're saying that the P1000 "synthetic' is better than the P1000 mineral? but where's the evidence for that? coz it violates the "free lunch" principle

just think of it this way. if someone can produce a far superior product for the same cost, then that'll make the old product obsolete. but mineral oils aren't obsolete

here's a hint that they're the same. both P1000 synethetic and mineral aren't rated acea a5/b5. but they're both api SN. that tells me that they're about the same.

more expensive synthetics are acea a5/b5

[oj88]

so you're saying that the P1000 "synthetic' is better than the P1000 mineral? but where's the evidence for that? coz it violates the "free lunch" principle

just think of it this way. if someone can produce a far superior product for the same cost, then that'll make the old product obsolete. but mineral oils aren't obsolete

here's a hint that they're the same. both P1000 synethetic and mineral aren't rated acea a5/b5. but they're both api SN. that tells me that they're about the same.

more expensive synthetics are acea a5/b5

Well obviously, branding is mostly the reason why they can jack up their prices. When I started using Zic, their X7 10w40 API CI-4 was still way cheaper than the Toyota 10W30 API CF.

And even Zic has different product tiers. They have the X9 FS series that are ACEA A5/B5 as well as lower tiers with the X5 and X3 that comes with it lower ACEA ratings or none at all.

For my vehicle, whose engine isn't exactly the bleeding edge, doesn't ask for the higher categories. In fact, going Synthetic CI-4 is probably the best place for me in terms of value for money.

[gearhead000]

^^
There are a lot of mineral oils that are actually very cheap, kahit pa tanggalin natin yung mga oils of unknown origins.
Eto yung mga mabibili mo mostly sa mga auto supplies store sa kanto, probably in the 200/L range.
For 3k or 5k OCI with normal driving, hindi na masama ito.
Also, sa mga Uber/Grab vehicle owners, I don't think they would throw in good money for the pricier variants.
Talo-talo na ito kasi mura nga (partnered with Vic oil filters. Haha).

Now, let's take the case of oils in the 1.5k/gal. range both for mineral and "fully synthetic" non-PAO based oils.
As I know, yung mga Toyota mineral oils eh around 320/L, which compares to some FS oil at ~350/L.
So one factor is of course the brand. They have a name to protect and an advertising budget to recoup.
Other FS oil vendor naman may just be rebranding some OEM oil so not much overhead there.
And again, for normal driving tapos 3k/5k OCI lang you may not probably notice much of a difference.
So kung saan mas palagay ang loob mo di doon ka.

Pertua?

Have you researched on oil life also? I don't know if ATF properties are the same as oil, but I have 1 unopened and half opened bottle sitting on my garage for 2 years now, it's Honda DW-1. I bought 4 liters thinking it was the same capacity of my oil. Can I still use it now? Thanks.

Haha. Masyadong obvious ba?
Although not that brand specifically, as usually it just comes as an additive to the main oil - Apex!
Ang daming claims sa oil na 'yan from its shills which are mostly based on "butt dyno".
I may not be the one to discount such observations outright, but it is too subjective if we are to rely solely on that.

About shelf life ng oil - based only on what you said na 2 years, if it's unopened and it was fairly new when bought, pwede pa yan.
Pero kung opened na probably don't risk it already since it had been exposed to moisture na.

For road use I don't think the differences are noticeable. A few oil changes ago I put HKS Super Racing but schedule prevented me from doing any track days. Sayang lang yung oil since it got changed out at 5k kms din.

For track you'll probably see it on the oil temps. For track I've had friends say that Motul 300V heats up faster than LiquiMoly or Royal Purple. Something like a few laps in with the same weight oil their cars will be approaching 150C with Motul, but can lap at 120-130C all day on RP/LM.

For track syempre ibang usapan na 'yan. Better brands would have thrown more R&D sa racing use of their premium oils.
I have read also that 0w60 is even used to mitigate the heat and the thinning of the oil due to the high rev environment.

Having been driving for so long, I now tend to be more pragmatic in my approach to these concerns.
Kung baga - been there, done that.
I used to 'experiment' on the various engine oils, viscosities, engine flushes, fuel and oil additives, air and oil filters, etc.
Would be almost OCD in researching about them too.
Today, I just go with reasonably priced, reasonably well made products.

[oj88]

Pertua still uses API categories like "SN" in their products but if you check the list of API licensed companies, wala sila doon.

That could mean two things:
1. They are using the API designations illegally, or
2. Pertua is a rebrand of someone else's oil that is API-licensed

[papi smith]

First time I was offered Apex I declined because it was SJ and my car was SL minimum. I think pinapalusot nila back then sa small shops, with people who don't know much about ratings and have OJTs as mechanics, but I do my change oil labor there.

About cheap mineral oil that's in the 200 range, it's mostly 20w50, if you look for 5w30 it's already 400 up pre-pandemic, at least dito sa mga auto shops sa amin.

[gearhead000]

Yes, you got that right.

Mostly binebenta sa mga auto supply stores are 20w50, much like the much vaunted Apex oils which are 15w50.
Ayan pa nga isang pet peeve ko sa oil na yan. They are being pushed sa mga newbie users with usually newer cars.
Late model cars are at most 5w40 suitable for our more tropical climate, but usual recommendation is still 5w30.
I guess the profit margin for this brand of oils is quite substantial that's why it's being pushed so much.

[Vodka]

here's a stupid question :

some people say that 10w40 is recommended for a hot country like PH. but if you monitor your coolant temps via obd2 it's the same max temps of around 86c whether you're in baguio in january, or in dagupan city in the summer.

so what's the point in using thicker oils in PH then, if the cooling system is able to regulate the temps anyway

[papi smith]

here's a stupid question :

some people say that 10w40 is recommended for a hot country like PH. but if you monitor your coolant temps via obd2 it's the same max temps of around 86c whether you're in baguio in january, or in dagupan city in the summer.

so what's the point in using thicker oils in PH then, if the cooling system is able to regulate the temps anyway

Are these the same people who thump the tires with their fists to check pressure?