Honda engine oil

[miko101130]

the 5w-10w rating will not matter because we live in a tropical climate. you should look at the other viscosity number which is the one during operating temps (the second number). kahit magpalit ka ng 5w-30 to 10w-30 eh manipis pa rin ang operating temp viscosity niyan kasi hindi naman nagbago yung "30".

kung sa tingin ng mechanic mo na mas malaki na ang oil journals in between the bearings coz of its age, then probably try a viscosity that is in the 50's range (heck, I've already seen a 10w-60 oil)

higher viscosity rating like 50 and 60 re suited for two kinds of engine...
1. poorly maintained vehicles with low compression and is consuming oils.
2. racing engines (redline has 10w60 0r 15w60 i think, same with other racing oils)... Due to the fact that this oils are use for TRACK days and LAPPING around a circuit which an engine is driven at redline on the tachometer most of the time.... which i don't think your engines are capable and even built to do.

If you want to conserve fuel use a 0w-5w to starting viscosity and a 40 operating viscosity
if you want better protection at stop and go traffic during summer use 10w to 15w starting viscosity and 40 operating viscosity

[rap2_tan]

Sir i think i dont have loose compression
No white smoke
No oil residue in muffler
Im just thinkin of putting a shell hellix the yellow packaging
15w-40 ata yun.
Since november my last change oil at 5000 kms my diptstick is on the middle level using a fs oil 5w 40
Do think switching to this thicker oil will solve my oil consumption issue

[miko101130]

normal lang na may consumption nang oil, 500ml during the entire 5000kms is still OK... especially if the vehicle is driven for long distances around a steady pace of 80-100kph.... by the way whats the odometer reading on your vehicle? theres really no problem in switching between viscosities, but i personally like to use 15w40 during the summer, then revert back to 5w40 during the rainy days.., oil could be lost in many ways not only through your tailpipe or visually through your exhaust.

there's an oil recirculation mechanism for the blow-by gas, there could be tiny leaks in your oils seals both front and back, the gasket and oil could also be an outlet for oil moisture to get out...

oil consumption should really be minimal unless you're running an engine through its BREAK-IN period, during this time the metals are still setting in...

[rap2_tan]

Tnx sir for your input
My odo is 84k+
Do you think this is only normal?

[miko101130]

Most new engines today use less than half a quart of oil in 3,000 miles. Some use almost no oil. But as the miles accumulate, wear and oil consumption naturally go up.

Using a quart of oil every 1,000 miles is not unusual for a high mileage engine. The amount of oil used is still acceptable, but by the time it reaches a quart of more in 500 miles it's using a LOT of oil.

WHAT CAUSES EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

Oil consumption depends primarily on two things: the valve guides and piston rings. If the valve guides are worn, or if there's too much clearance between the valve stems and guides, or if the valve guide seals are worn, cracked, missing, broken or improperly installed, the engine will suck oil down the guides and into the cylinders. The engine may still have good compression, but will use a lot of oil.

If the engine is using oil because of worn valve guides or valve guide seals, it is possible to replace just the valve guide seals without having to remove the cylinder heads or overhaul the engine. New valve guide seals can drastically reduce oil consumption.

External Oil Leaks - Some of the many points where external leaks occur may include: oil lines, crankcase drain plug, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pump gasket, fuel pump gasket, timing cover and camshaft bearing seal.

For example, it has been estimated that a leak of one drop of oil every 20 feet is approximately equal to a loss of one quart every 100 miles.

Front or Read Main Bearing Seals - Worn front or rear main bearing seals almost always result in oil leakage. This can only be determined when the engine is operated under load conditions. Bearing seals should be renewed when worn because a slight leak will result in extremely high oil consumption just as it would with an external oil leak.

Fuel Dilution
If unburnt fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile. Both will result in higher oil consumption. Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector, fuel pump problem, restricted air intake or through excessive idling.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_co...on.htm(source)

[kompressor]

higher viscosity rating like 50 and 60 re suited for two kinds of engine...
1. poorly maintained vehicles with low compression and is consuming oils.
2. racing engines (redline has 10w60 0r 15w60 i think, same with other racing oils)... Due to the fact that this oils are use for TRACK days and LAPPING around a circuit which an engine is driven at redline on the tachometer most of the time.... which i don't think your engines are capable and even built to do.

If you want to conserve fuel use a 0w-5w to starting viscosity and a 40 operating viscosity
if you want better protection at stop and go traffic during summer use 10w to 15w starting viscosity and 40 operating viscosity

The very reason why I mentioned the higher viscosity rating is because of the possibility that his bearings may already have clearances that are above factory specs.


Being in a tropical climate, one cannot really use the lower Winter viscosity rating numbers of multigrade oil since those behave at the said W numbers only at 32 degrees farenheit and below so no difference really in using 0w/5w/10w here. However, it is still noted that multigrade oils will have a lower viscosity rating (but definitely not near their W values) than its operating temp values which is very helpful in cold engine starts even in tropical ambient temps. The very reason why 20w-40 (20w-50 for older engines with possible larger bearing clearances) multigrade oil is generally ok for our climate considering the price difference of multigrade oils with lower winter grades.

[kompressor]

Sir i think i dont have loose compression
No white smoke
No oil residue in muffler
Im just thinkin of putting a shell hellix the yellow packaging
15w-40 ata yun.
Since november my last change oil at 5000 kms my diptstick is on the middle level using a fs oil 5w 40
Do think switching to this thicker oil will solve my oil consumption issue

There are engines that have lose compression without displaying white smoke or oil residue in the muffler. (Hindi lapat na valves, worn piston compression rings having bigger clearances).

[babynos01]

At Php960/gal, baka mas okay pa na mag-Idemitsu fully synthetic ka na lang. Nababasa ko rito around P1,200 lang yata per gallon yun sa UniOil. They say yan din yung binibentang Honda FS VTEC-LEV oil sa mga casa.

O.T.
Parang kilala ko kung kanino itong picture na ito ah. haha!