Honda engine oil

[rap2_tan]

Good day! Is it ok to use a honda oil 10w 30 mineral oil for my toyota vios? I just cant find a 10w 30 mineral oil outside. I find it cheap for its viscosity at around 960 / gallon.
Pls refer to the pic the one on the right
Thanks!

[gearhead000]

At Php960/gal, baka mas okay pa na mag-Idemitsu fully synthetic ka na lang. Nababasa ko rito around P1,200 lang yata per gallon yun sa UniOil. They say yan din yung binibentang Honda FS VTEC-LEV oil sa mga casa.



Here's a link for reference: Idemitsu 5W30 for P1,200/4L.

[rap2_tan]

Sir im using fs oil now. since old na engine ko sabi ng mechanic ko better to use thicker oil. Medyo nagbabawas kasi ng oil eh. Masyado kasi manipis fs

[gearhead000]

Ah, sorry naman. Hehe. Pero kung sabi eh thicker oil, bakit 10W30 pa rin? Why not, say, 15W40 or kung nagbawas pa rin... 20W50?

[rap2_tan]

Gusto ko muna sana matry 10w baka d na magbawas.
Manipis pa rin ba 10w? 5w gamit ko ngayon na fs.
Do think ok lang gamitin itong galing honda? Manufactured by idemitsu sya eh

[kompressor]

the 5w-10w rating will not matter because we live in a tropical climate. you should look at the other viscosity number which is the one during operating temps (the second number). kahit magpalit ka ng 5w-30 to 10w-30 eh manipis pa rin ang operating temp viscosity niyan kasi hindi naman nagbago yung "30".

kung sa tingin ng mechanic mo na mas malaki na ang oil journals in between the bearings coz of its age, then probably try a viscosity that is in the 50's range (heck, I've already seen a 10w-60 oil)

[Retz]

What is the temperature range of 5W, 10W & 15W during cold starting? and is SAE 40 the best viscosity level suited for operating engine condition especially during heavy traffic?

[Bitulo]

My humble suggestion, tignan ang vehicle manual kung ano ang recommended para sa car. Karaniwan sa Pilipinas ang recommended ay SAE 40 or SAE 50 dahil mainit ang climate. Yung mayron designation na 10W or 20W only indicates na sa cold temperatures, malabnaw pa rin siya. Kung sabi sa manual ay SAE 40 or SAE 50, risky gumamit ng SAE 30 or lower like SAE 20. Yung rekomendado kasi nasa design ng mga clearances sa makina. Kung malabnaw kay sa recommended sa manual ang gamitin, mabilis ang engine wear. Importante ito whether fully synthetic or mineral based ang engine oil.

Tignan din sa manual kung ano ang recommended na API grade. Kung halimbawa sabi sa manual API SF, pwede ka gumamit ng API SG pataas hanggang sa latest na API SM at API SN. Pero di ka dapat gumamit ng API lower than API SF.

I hope nakatulong ang aking suggestion.

Happy motoring mga KaTsikot.

[gearhead000]

i think from his post that the recommended is 5W30, which he wants to change to 10W kasi nga nagbabawas daw ng langis. as kompressor said, that wouldn't change the situtation much dahil usually at or around the operating temps naman nagbabawas ng langis. yung 5W at 10W eh during starting lang naman or when the engine's still cold. so maybe it's better if you try muna kung me makita ka na 5W, 10W, or 15W40 kahit mineral lang or semi-synthetic. baka kasi masyadong malapot na yung 20W50 although eto ang pinakamadaling hanapin sa lahat.

[miko101130]

Sir im using fs oil now. since old na engine ko sabi ng mechanic ko better to use thicker oil. Medyo nagbabawas kasi ng oil eh. Masyado kasi manipis fs

Bro, there is no such thing as manipis na fully synthetic oil.... fully synthetic oils will not cause any problems with any engines even old ones as long as the engine is well taken cared for, meaning no valve/cylinder/ crankcase/ gasket/ oil seal problems...

All synthetic oils beginning from 0W to 15W will be suited for any car, OIL will Retain its flow rate and viscosity at room temperature, that's around 27 degrees Celsius... If you're mechanic is saying that fully synthetic is "manipis" better find another mechanic... There will be no argument, Fully synthetic oils will provide Unparalleled protection and performance than semi synthetic and mineral oil... if you're engine is consuming oil, fix the problem inside the engine.

If you're seals are already worn and your engine is already having lower compression, its best to fix the root problem.

15w40 oils will not prevent smoking and the consumption of oils, the 15W at the beginning only indicates that the oil will flow at a slower rate than a 5W or a 10W oil at start-up... while the last number which is either 30 or 40 will indicate how the viscosity will end up at operating temperature...

[miko101130]

the 5w-10w rating will not matter because we live in a tropical climate. you should look at the other viscosity number which is the one during operating temps (the second number). kahit magpalit ka ng 5w-30 to 10w-30 eh manipis pa rin ang operating temp viscosity niyan kasi hindi naman nagbago yung "30".

kung sa tingin ng mechanic mo na mas malaki na ang oil journals in between the bearings coz of its age, then probably try a viscosity that is in the 50's range (heck, I've already seen a 10w-60 oil)

higher viscosity rating like 50 and 60 re suited for two kinds of engine...
1. poorly maintained vehicles with low compression and is consuming oils.
2. racing engines (redline has 10w60 0r 15w60 i think, same with other racing oils)... Due to the fact that this oils are use for TRACK days and LAPPING around a circuit which an engine is driven at redline on the tachometer most of the time.... which i don't think your engines are capable and even built to do.

If you want to conserve fuel use a 0w-5w to starting viscosity and a 40 operating viscosity
if you want better protection at stop and go traffic during summer use 10w to 15w starting viscosity and 40 operating viscosity

[rap2_tan]

Sir i think i dont have loose compression
No white smoke
No oil residue in muffler
Im just thinkin of putting a shell hellix the yellow packaging
15w-40 ata yun.
Since november my last change oil at 5000 kms my diptstick is on the middle level using a fs oil 5w 40
Do think switching to this thicker oil will solve my oil consumption issue

[miko101130]

normal lang na may consumption nang oil, 500ml during the entire 5000kms is still OK... especially if the vehicle is driven for long distances around a steady pace of 80-100kph.... by the way whats the odometer reading on your vehicle? theres really no problem in switching between viscosities, but i personally like to use 15w40 during the summer, then revert back to 5w40 during the rainy days.., oil could be lost in many ways not only through your tailpipe or visually through your exhaust.

there's an oil recirculation mechanism for the blow-by gas, there could be tiny leaks in your oils seals both front and back, the gasket and oil could also be an outlet for oil moisture to get out...

oil consumption should really be minimal unless you're running an engine through its BREAK-IN period, during this time the metals are still setting in...

[rap2_tan]

Tnx sir for your input
My odo is 84k+
Do you think this is only normal?

[miko101130]

Most new engines today use less than half a quart of oil in 3,000 miles. Some use almost no oil. But as the miles accumulate, wear and oil consumption naturally go up.

Using a quart of oil every 1,000 miles is not unusual for a high mileage engine. The amount of oil used is still acceptable, but by the time it reaches a quart of more in 500 miles it's using a LOT of oil.

WHAT CAUSES EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

Oil consumption depends primarily on two things: the valve guides and piston rings. If the valve guides are worn, or if there's too much clearance between the valve stems and guides, or if the valve guide seals are worn, cracked, missing, broken or improperly installed, the engine will suck oil down the guides and into the cylinders. The engine may still have good compression, but will use a lot of oil.

If the engine is using oil because of worn valve guides or valve guide seals, it is possible to replace just the valve guide seals without having to remove the cylinder heads or overhaul the engine. New valve guide seals can drastically reduce oil consumption.

External Oil Leaks - Some of the many points where external leaks occur may include: oil lines, crankcase drain plug, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pump gasket, fuel pump gasket, timing cover and camshaft bearing seal.

For example, it has been estimated that a leak of one drop of oil every 20 feet is approximately equal to a loss of one quart every 100 miles.

Front or Read Main Bearing Seals - Worn front or rear main bearing seals almost always result in oil leakage. This can only be determined when the engine is operated under load conditions. Bearing seals should be renewed when worn because a slight leak will result in extremely high oil consumption just as it would with an external oil leak.

Fuel Dilution
If unburnt fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile. Both will result in higher oil consumption. Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector, fuel pump problem, restricted air intake or through excessive idling.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_co...on.htm(source)

[kompressor]

higher viscosity rating like 50 and 60 re suited for two kinds of engine...
1. poorly maintained vehicles with low compression and is consuming oils.
2. racing engines (redline has 10w60 0r 15w60 i think, same with other racing oils)... Due to the fact that this oils are use for TRACK days and LAPPING around a circuit which an engine is driven at redline on the tachometer most of the time.... which i don't think your engines are capable and even built to do.

If you want to conserve fuel use a 0w-5w to starting viscosity and a 40 operating viscosity
if you want better protection at stop and go traffic during summer use 10w to 15w starting viscosity and 40 operating viscosity

The very reason why I mentioned the higher viscosity rating is because of the possibility that his bearings may already have clearances that are above factory specs.


Being in a tropical climate, one cannot really use the lower Winter viscosity rating numbers of multigrade oil since those behave at the said W numbers only at 32 degrees farenheit and below so no difference really in using 0w/5w/10w here. However, it is still noted that multigrade oils will have a lower viscosity rating (but definitely not near their W values) than its operating temp values which is very helpful in cold engine starts even in tropical ambient temps. The very reason why 20w-40 (20w-50 for older engines with possible larger bearing clearances) multigrade oil is generally ok for our climate considering the price difference of multigrade oils with lower winter grades.

[kompressor]

Sir i think i dont have loose compression
No white smoke
No oil residue in muffler
Im just thinkin of putting a shell hellix the yellow packaging
15w-40 ata yun.
Since november my last change oil at 5000 kms my diptstick is on the middle level using a fs oil 5w 40
Do think switching to this thicker oil will solve my oil consumption issue

There are engines that have lose compression without displaying white smoke or oil residue in the muffler. (Hindi lapat na valves, worn piston compression rings having bigger clearances).

[babynos01]

At Php960/gal, baka mas okay pa na mag-Idemitsu fully synthetic ka na lang. Nababasa ko rito around P1,200 lang yata per gallon yun sa UniOil. They say yan din yung binibentang Honda FS VTEC-LEV oil sa mga casa.

O.T.
Parang kilala ko kung kanino itong picture na ito ah. haha!