Filter: open type or not?

**notEworthy27** · December 22nd, 2004 07:08 AM

I'm planning to get started with my filters. kaso, I'm deciding whether to go for the open type or not...If I go for the open type, will it compromise my water fording capability? I know its somewhat silly to ask but then will water get into it?

**trup** · December 22nd, 2004 07:21 AM

check the AEM website, they have a bypass valve thingy if u happen to suck water w/ the open type filter, for me mas gusto ko drop-in filter para mukhang stock

**ebbfolls** · December 22nd, 2004 07:56 AM

Originally Posted by notEworthy27

I'm planning to get started with my filters. kaso, I'm deciding whether to go for the open type or not...If I go for the open type, will it compromise my water fording capability? I know its somewhat silly to ask but then will water get into it?

In my opinion, unless you are racing the car at wide open throttle and hit a water puddle, there's little chance for the engine to take in water. As long as the filter is above water level, you should be ok. The surface area of the filter is big enough to keep it from ingesting splashed up water.

**mazdamazda** · December 22nd, 2004 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by trup

check the AEM website, they have a bypass valve thingy if u happen to suck water w/ the open type filter, for me mas gusto ko drop-in filter para mukhang stock

the bypass valve is only practical for cars equipped with cold air intakes, since the filter is located very close to the bottom of the car and is vulnerable being splashed or even submerged in water.

go for an open-type filter to get the most out of it.

**notEworthy27** · December 24th, 2004 08:16 PM

so if i wanted to improve my air intake go for the open type? it would be more efficient as compared to the closed types? lets say I go through a flood, a tire high flood. will the intake be more efficient if it were an open type? or since a closed air filter's opening is located at the bottom, it would more likely ingest water?

**Auto_Xer** · December 24th, 2004 10:53 PM

An open type filter will usually be more effective as an air source over a filter in an airbox.
There are exceptions in systems where the airbox & air tract is part of or taken account into by the ecu programmer/engine designer.
If you plan to fjord water then the best place to get your air is above or roofline level, assuming you've waterproofed your engine that is.

**ebbfolls** · December 25th, 2004 02:07 AM

Originally Posted by notEworthy27

so if i wanted to improve my air intake go for the open type? it would be more efficient as compared to the closed types? lets say I go through a flood, a tire high flood. will the intake be more efficient if it were an open type? or since a closed air filter's opening is located at the bottom, it would more likely ingest water?

Most stock configurations use an airbox for 1) to minimize air intake noise, and 2) to afford a certain degree water ingestion protection. I would say the chances of the engine taking in water is just about the same for a boxed and an exposed (open) filter.

Like I said earlier, unless the engine is running at a very high rpm and the throttle valve is wide open, splashed up water usually doesnt find its way into the intake air duct. The reason behind this is because water is heavier than air, and if the engine vacuum had the choice, it would draw in the air far more easier than it would draw in water. Up until available vacuum (like when under the given set of conditions above) exceeds the available air to be drawn in, will the engine start to take in the water, too.

Boxed filters usually have 2 intakes, 1 facing the bottom to drain any water finding its way in the air duct, and the other facing forward and away from the engine for a cooler intake air. Other designs also use a 3rd intake taking air in from some kind of heat exchanger in the exhaust manifold through a flap controlled by a thermal spring that diverts air between the 2 intakes.

**notEworthy27** · December 30th, 2004 03:01 AM

I forgot to say this in my previous posts. my ride is a strada TDIC. where's the air duct for the intake directed to? :D

**ebbfolls** · December 30th, 2004 04:02 AM

Why are you asking me this? Why don't you find it out yourself? You have the car at your disposal, dont you?

**Alfalfameister** · December 30th, 2004 08:41 AM

I had a '97 Strada before, and had open-type cone K&N Filter installed. Prices (a few years ago) were about P4,500 for the filter, and about P2-3k for the installation (kasi they had to fabricate brackets and stuff).

Best money I spent for my Strada. Well, second best; the best pala was changing shocks (I had Old Man Emu) -- MUCH better ride.

PROs: Better fuel efficiency, UNLESS you get gigil because of the BETTER acceleration. If you don't change your driving habits (tempting kasi with that mod), you'll save fuel and get better acceleration.

CONs: Medyo mas umingay yung Strada, and when you accelerate, you can hear a sucking sound ("humihigop ng hangin" sound).

Notes:

1. Keep the stock air box somewhere safe after. I re-installed stock air box when it was time to sell the Strada.

2. Unless you go to really deep floods, water won't get in. In fact, in my estimation, a STOCK strada and my K&N equipped strada could ford the same depths.

3. You will lose the option of installing a snorkel.

EDIT:

1. Kung K&N na filter lang ang kukunin mo (not the open type), the difference, I think, will be minimal. The restriction, apart from the filter element itself, was (at least in a 97 Strada) was the air box/intake itself.

2. The "humihigop ng hangin" sound is very slight... until the turbo kicks in. Then it sound like you're, um, hmmm... try this: make a face like you're whistling... now instead of whistling, suck in air fast... there... that's the sound.

From one (former) Strada owner to another, I'd say you should hie thee to Fusion Motorsports and have Auto_Xer install one for you.

BTW, for open-type installations, I trust ONLY Auto_Xer to do that for me (bracketing and such). FYI, I used to live in Alabang, and the trip to QC (at that time, Auto_Xer was in the Banawe area) was worth it. Installation took about 2-3 hours.