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  1. Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    5,130
    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by oj88 View Post
    I doubt the typical dashboard temp gauge would provide that info.

    My money is on either a worn radiator cap and/or a stuck-closed thermostat.




    Typically, dashboard warning lights and indicators are not used for diagnosis. They're basically warning and indicators that can go bad and are not accurate. Use either a stick thermometer or an infrared non contact thermometer.

    The erratic operation of the dash temperature Gauge might be the cause of the concern
    .
    Last edited by jick.cejoco; December 5th, 2017 at 06:51 AM.

  2. Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    917
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by jick.cejoco View Post
    How hot is hot?
    What was the temperature in °F or °C?
    needle is about more than 3/4 my gauge is not digital sorry... that's why every time it gets to that point i stop without turning the engine off and add more water on the radiator , this way the engine cools down to normal temp then off i go again...

  3. Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    917
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by StockEngine View Post
    this..

    waterpump either works or it doesnt...

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app
    well i was also thinking waterpump was not working so what i did was i poured water on the radiator but did not fill it all up barely above the holes when you're looking inside the radiator and then i revved the engine and saw that water is moving to the right which got me thinking that waterpump is working, though im not so sure if this was the correct method of testing the waterpump... if this is correct i'm setting my eyes on the rad cap...

  4. Join Date
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by box_type View Post
    needle is about more than 3/4 my gauge is not digital sorry... that's why every time it gets to that point i stop without turning the engine off and add more water on the radiator , this way the engine cools down to normal temp then off i go again...




    So, in other words, it is not overheating but hotter than usual. The cooling efficiency is dependent on other factors:
    1 ambient temperature
    2 engine combustion efficiency
    3 airflow across the radiator
    4 liquid coolant composition/age/purity
    5 condition inside the radiator
    6 surface condition of the external surface of the radiator
    7 state or condition of the thermostat

  5. Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    917
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by jick.cejoco View Post
    So, in other words, it is not overheating but hotter than usual. The cooling efficiency is dependent on other factors:
    1 ambient temperature
    2 engine combustion efficiency
    3 airflow across the radiator
    4 liquid coolant composition/age/purity
    5 condition inside the radiator
    6 surface condition of the external surface of the radiator
    7 state or condition of the thermostat
    title says "heating up *70kph"

    1. ambient temperature - maybe i can also use the term hotter than usual, it was kinda hot that day...
    2. engine combustion efficiency - i don't know how to answer this
    3. airflow accross the radiator - if you're asking how powerful the airflow is, its like #3 on an electric fan...
    4. liquid coolant composition/age/purity - i just use tap water
    5. condition inside the radiator - i'm not entirely sure but when i look inside the radiator the fins doesn't look clogged and the surrounding area is clean.
    6. surface condition of the external surface of the radiator - the external fins (if that's what you call 'em) are not dirty but i'm not saying its totally clean, hehe
    7. state or condition of the thermostat - this i cannot answer
    Last edited by box_type; December 5th, 2017 at 09:59 AM.

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    5,130
    #16
    I copy, Toyota 4af not 4afe.
    Check the ignition timing.
    Check the engine vacuum at idle- 17- 21 inHg.

    If the air/fuel ratio is a little bit lean or there is manifold vacuum leak, expect higher than normal engine operating temperature.

  7. Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    917
    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by jick.cejoco View Post
    I copy, Toyota 4af not 4afe.
    Check the ignition timing.
    Check the engine vacuum at idle- 17- 21 inHg.

    If the air/fuel ratio is a little bit lean or there is manifold vacuum leak, expect higher than normal engine operating temperature.
    ok thanks but i don't think i can do these things anymore, i'll have to bring the car to a mechanic.

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    17,339
    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by oj88 View Post
    My money is on either a worn radiator cap and/or a stuck-closed thermostat.
    Same thought here. Another way to test if it's stuck thermostat is to rev the car at around 3K to 4K rpm while the car is stationary and observe if the temp also rises.

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