Smart Car Battery Charger

**12vdc** · May 12th, 2020 05:48 PM

^Yes po. The return circuit should be the same if you want to achieve the same current.

**ninjababez** · May 12th, 2020 05:51 PM

Originally Posted by 12vdc

^Yes po. The return circuit should be the same if you want to achieve the same current.

thanks bro
nagbaka sakali makatipid hehehe

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**12vdc** · May 12th, 2020 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by yapoy86

Afaik.. innova with d4d engines are already direct injection.. electronic fuel pump only primes the system but the high pressure pump is driven by the engine.. also glow plugs turn on only for a few seconds..

What makes diesel engines hard to start is due to their high compression ratio.. and heavy internals compared to a gas engine

What i meant was older direct injection diesel engines with no swirl chambers and less combustion chamber-area do not require glow-plugs to start. An example are Isuzu 4JA1 and Mitsi 4Dseries engines. I could even start them just by hand-cranking mostly in marine-engine application, no batteries required. Also the common-rail injection of newer engines require electricl current to open and close those injectors. The mechanical-type is non-electric just a constant pressure on the injection pump driven by the crank.

**12vdc** · May 12th, 2020 06:06 PM

Now my question is, can you push-start a cold CRDi engine without battery or with open circuit battery?

I haven't tried this yet, but some years ago i was able to push-start a cold diesel non-CRDi engine only relying on the alternator to activate the injection pump.

**oj88** · May 12th, 2020 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by 12vdc

Now my question is, can you push-start a cold CRDi engine without battery or with open circuit battery?

I haven't tried this yet, but some years ago i was able to push-start a cold diesel non-CRDi engine only relying on the alternator to activate the injection pump.

Never do that.

Any modern vehicle (gas or Diesel) has a bunch of computer modules that relies on a relatively clean DC B+. The battery acts like a big capacitor to keep the system voltage very near to 12V DC with minimal ripple voltage. Without it, the ripple voltage could be intolerable enough to harm the modules.

The same reason you shouldn't disconnect the battery on a modern vehicle while the engine is running.

**Archerfish** · May 12th, 2020 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by dr. d

we shall see.
the cables should be roll-up-able, kasi.
also, too heavy and they tend to scratch the car's finish.
selamat po.

I know I've said it before, I had enough of this so called "heavy duty" but this one looks promising:

Tolsen Booster Cable Car Jumper Starter w/ Case (3M - 22A) 6561 Car Battery Tester | Online Shopping Lazada

As I understand it, cross section of the wire is 16 square mm.

**dr. d** · May 12th, 2020 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by Archerfish

I know I've said it before, I had enough of this so called "heavy duty" but this one looks promising:

Tolsen Booster Cable Car Jumper Starter w/ Case (3M - 22?A) 656?1 Car Battery Tester | Online Shopping Lazada

As I understand it, cross section of the wire is 16 square mm.

a 16 square mm cross-section area translates to 2.25 mm diameter that translates to roughly gauge 11. it's actually between gauge 10 and 12.
pretty thick, compared to the barely 1 mm diameter (?) (roughly, gauge 18) of some of those i bought from the mall.
this 16 sq. mm size can carry slightly over 20 amp x 12 V = 200 watts. (continuous operation, i hope. my googled source didn't say PMPO.)

i hope my rounded computations are ok. i have no formal electrical education.

**yapoy86** · May 12th, 2020 09:04 PM

Originally Posted by 12vdc

Now my question is, can you push-start a cold CRDi engine without battery or with open circuit battery?

I haven't tried this yet, but some years ago i was able to push-start a cold diesel non-CRDi engine only relying on the alternator to activate the injection pump.

You can still push start a crdi engine but you need a battery to power up the ecu, injectors and the heater.. without battery you cannot do push start.. also the battery is needed to excite the alternator.. if you notice, alternator shops still hook the alternator to a battery before testing.

**12vdc** · May 12th, 2020 09:07 PM

Originally Posted by oj88

Never do that.

Any modern vehicle (gas or Diesel) has a bunch of computer modules that relies on a relatively clean DC B+. The battery acts like a big capacitor to keep the system voltage very near to 12V DC with minimal ripple voltage. Without it, the ripple voltage could be intolerable enough to harm the modules.

The same reason you shouldn't disconnect the battery on a modern vehicle while the engine is running.

I'm just curious maybe some members could share their experience.

Let's assume battery went out with unseen open terminal due to sulfation?

Wait, i think i already did but in a hot engine its a Toyota 1NZ and Triton 4D56 CR. Former died right away aftr disconnecting negative terminal, i guess the alternator wasn't able to sustain the fuel pump and injectors at idle rpm.

**babkalakal** · May 13th, 2020 12:02 AM

Originally Posted by 12vdc

I'm just curious maybe some members could share their experience.

Let's assume battery went out with unseen open terminal due to sulfation?

Wait, i think i already did but in a hot engine its a Toyota 1NZ and Triton 4D56 CR. Former died right away aftr disconnecting negative terminal, i guess the alternator wasn't able to sustain the fuel pump and injectors at idle rpm.

same observation. I saw a fortuner 2kd engine. neighbors guest with a dead battery. since the guys did not have a jumper cable they temporarily placed a spare battery to start the engine. disconnected the battery then engine promptly dies. They had to step on the accelerator to keep the engine running until the old battery could be reinstalled.

learned something new today that its not advisable to to that with modern cars.