Grounding Kits

[Chinoi]

Ito illustration drawing ng disadvantage ng Series ground wire connection. Hindi kasama diyan yun loose connection sa mga terminal due to corrosion or rust. Let's say 0.3V ang voltage drop of each wire. Total of 1.8V voltage drop. mabawasan sa 14.5V alternator voltage. Imagine mo na lang kung bukas aircon,high beam headlamp mo. Sigurado discharge battery mo sa traffic.

Another disadvantage kung may loose or naputol sa mga wire ay wala na continuity para sa battery at alternator.

[TheGreenThing]

Hahahahaha

[jhnkvn]

Bah, nawala lang replied post ko. So I'll reconstruct it again.

remember this is "grounding wire" so you don't always need to compare it to hoses as the purpose of the grounding wire is just to strengthen the weak points in the panel joints. your car is the "ground" itself that is why you need the shortest point to connect to ground. even if you install amplifiers at the back of your car, it is best to tap the negative to the body rather than having a dedicated wire direct to the battery.

I know yapoy. However, shortest is not always the best. It's always the resistance that matters. I can ground something using a 22AWG with a 1 inch distance or I can use a 1AWG wire over a 5 inch distance, the 1AWG still wins. It's not length.. it's always been resistance.

And remember grounding wires/battery/alternator are DC system so you cannot compare to a speaker which is an AC system, hence resistance is not impedance. Speakers will always have impedance because of the coils, you cannot make near-zero ohm to move a coil around a magnet.

Grounding kits helps in distributing the current flow thru multiple grounding contacts. Considering that most auto wires are just designed to run basic electrical accessories and they degrade over time(crimps, bonds,corossion, torque), installation of additional grounding would always be an advantage.

Imagine one thick wire with single contact vs multiple thin wire in multiple contact. You should be comparing firehose to a multiple garden hose.

Sorry, I was thinking about speaker wires while typing that. Naisulat ko pa "the perfect speaker"

However, the premise still remains the same. After all, the greatest attribute that affects impedence is resistance. In that case, impedence is result of resistance.

When I look into car audio installations (trust me, I've seen a lot), you won't see them doing multiple grounding points. The reason for this is a matter of saving themselves headaches. The more grounding points you do, the more chances of encountering a ground loop after all. If you can just do a single ground, why the hell do you need multiple ones? I mean, if you have multiple grounding points and you're experiencing a voltage drop, you'll be checking each and every one of them versus just checking once on a single grounding point. Why go through all of the hassle?

I don't see the need for efficient distribution. Electrons in wires travel something like 300,000 kilometers per second. As long as it can get from Point A to B with the least resistance, okay na yun.

Between multiple 8AWG versus a single 1AWG, it won't matter. It's just that I don't know why people would spend for MORE when there's less. You're spending more for plastic sleevings on the wires, the labor of grounding it, the brand name of HKS, and the circle gold plated stuff that does nothing except be more eye candy. In that case, you're better off getting a larger diameter wire and dressing it up on techflex of your choice. Less expensive, more protection, and less engine bay clutter.

It's like if Jollibee is offering you 100g ChickenJoy Breasts for 100 pesos versus 100g ChickenJoy Wings for 200 pesos. It's the same chicken down to the last gram... and given that you have no special preference on chicken parts, why would you choose the more expensive one and the more tedious one?

Ito illustration drawing ng disadvantage ng Series ground wire connection. Hindi kasama diyan yun loose connection sa mga terminal due to corrosion or rust. Let's say 0.3V ang voltage drop of each wire. Total of 1.8V voltage drop. mabawasan sa 14.5V alternator voltage. Imagine mo na lang kung bukas aircon,high beam headlamp mo. Sigurado discharge battery mo sa traffic.

Theoretically, parallel > series. However, you're not wiring a house. The distance is so negligible that it won't really have an impact in everyday driving. In any case, 12.7V of charging voltage is still charging voltage. In other words, it hasn't tapped to the battery yet and the alternator, although strained, is still providing the needed amperage of the electrical system.

The flaws here is that voltage drops aren't constant nor is alternator amperage. It's not like you'll be roaming around EDSA with a 12.7V charging system permanently. There will be times when your system will dip to 12.7V then I'll shoot up to the charging state of 13.2V or even more. Do you need to worry? Not really unless you start hitting <12V.

[renzo_d10]

Nakaka-tulo laway trunk setup mo, John! Grabe!

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[jhnkvn]

Nakaka-tulo laway trunk setup mo, John! Grabe!

Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks. Lots of love and hard work went there.



Take my trunk for example. On the left side is the power distribution block and on the right, is my ground. Both of them essentially turn 0AWG to 4AWG wired to each of the individual amplifiers. What you see on the left are fuses of varying amperages, the green one is 30A, orange is 40A, and lime green is 100A. The fuse up front near the battery is at 150A.

The car is grounded using 0 and 4AWG wires. Just enough for the alternator amperage. I could have gone overkill and rewired everything to 0, but it won't matter. 4AWG is enough. That's more carrying amperage than your stock Civic alternator of 70-80A. If multiple grounding is beneficial, trust me, I would have done it given that I'm very OC with my system. But alas it isn't so just one big wire > multiple grounding points.

I know of this is because.. well, it's my car, dapat lang! but it's also because I need it in my project documentation when competing. And it covers not just photos of my common ground but even wiring diagrams of the entire car. From the routing of it, to the sizes, to its protection sleeving. Yes, ganyan kami ka-OC

[renzo_d10]

Ganda malamang tumunog niyan. Pa-demo naman minsan! Hehehe.

You still have your stock HU on diba?

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[TheGreenThing]

Pangit tumunog yan hindi kasi naka parallel connection grounds niya.. =p

[12vdc]

Sorry, I was thinking about speaker wires while typing that. Naisulat ko pa "the perfect speaker"

However, the premise still remains the same. After all, the greatest attribute that affects impedence is resistance. In that case, impedence is result of resistance.

When I look into car audio installations (trust me, I've seen a lot), you won't see them doing multiple grounding points. The reason for this is a matter of saving themselves headaches. The more grounding points you do, the more chances of encountering a ground loop after all. If you can just do a single ground, why the hell do you need multiple ones? I mean, if you have multiple grounding points and you're experiencing a voltage drop, you'll be checking each and every one of them versus just checking once on a single grounding point. Why go through all of the hassle?

I don't see the need for efficient distribution. Electrons in wires travel something like 300,000 kilometers per second. As long as it can get from Point A to B with the least resistance, okay na yun.

Between multiple 8AWG versus a single 1AWG, it won't matter. It's just that I don't know why people would spend for MORE when there's less. You're spending more for plastic sleevings on the wires, the labor of grounding it, the brand name of HKS, and the circle gold plated stuff that does nothing except be more eye candy. In that case, you're better off getting a larger diameter wire and dressing it up on techflex of your choice. Less expensive, more protection, and less engine bay clutter.

It's like if Jollibee is offering you 100g ChickenJoy Breasts for 100 pesos versus 100g ChickenJoy Wings for 200 pesos. It's the same chicken down to the last gram... and given that you have no special preference on chicken parts, why would you choose the more expensive one and the more tedious one?

In an audio system, you need to ground everything that needs to be grounded or else the device will act as a huge antennae absorbing noise, transients, and statics. Grounding is also called "shielding" (shielding from noise).

Ever wonder why cars has negative earth(chassis grounding) its simply because it is an unbalance electrical transmission, the chassis being negative while positive as "hot" line. For Low frequency applications such as car audio or video, unbalanced transmission works fine but you should always shield. Same for coaxial system, being unbalance it needs to be shielded and earthed. For high frequency digital transmissions balance transmission is much preferred because the noise can be cancelled by twisting the pairs, same technology used for 802.3/ ethernet. There are so many derivatives of wire transmission CAT3, CAT5 shielded, unshielded etc., all handles specific frequency range, lengths, speeds with the same goal - transmit signal and receive to the other end with least noise attenuation.

When the first cars were built, it was using positive as the chassis ground and negative as "hot". Similarly this was applied in telecommunications DC systems, positive being the earth ground wile the negative as "hot". This principle of reverse polarity is applied to prevent "cathodic reaction".

Wiring a gauge 0 to your audio system is same as making a grounding BUS BAR, so in effect your wire makes an efficient 0-ohm return to the ground. Your car chassis acts like a grounding bus-bar but it is not efficent enough because of dissimilar alloy metals with different bonding. If you want to be "extra OC" you could actually customize a copper ground bus-bar in your car, but then again that would be unecessary if you have already a dedicated ground wire.

[jhnkvn]

Actually, may iba gumagawa niyan 12dvc but yes, it's extra OC na.

Thank you for the article. Ito gusto ko sa Tsikot eh give and take of information. Staying true sa handle name mo ha :naughty2:

[Chinoi]

The reason for using Multiple Ground Wire was only for ECU or computer controlled engine. Sensors on Intake manifold, engine block and other sensors need good ground connection. Poor ground connection will deviate sensors input signals causing the ECU to misinterpret its sensors signals. This will cause erratic output control signal of ECU or computer box for fuel injectors, air mixture control, wrong timing control for the engine.

Big 3 Grounding Kit was only for Carburator Type engine.

Installing Grounding Wires will only benefit old cars, flooded cars due to rusted and corroded terminal ground wire connections.