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  1. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    70
    #1
    Mga sirs.. need your expertise. I just recently bought a 2004 honda accord and i dont have thr remote when i got it. The alarm wont turn off and blinking lights and horn all the time. Steps taken to try to disable it

    1. Disconnect reconnect bat
    2. Unlock lock unlock driver side door and seitch on engine for 10mins
    3. Put a jumper to connect the hood line sensor
    4. Sent it the car off to an accesory shop to havr a new alarm system insatalled

    With all the procedures done, my oem alarm still cannot be disabled and turned off..

    What next to do..? Thanks in advance for the mga masters..

  2. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    70
    #2
    Add ko lang pala.. the key i have i think is a valet key kasi its color gray.. nor remote fob key.

  3. Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3
    #3
    I currently run a new group 65 parts store AGM under the hood and a 370 CES alt. I'm now wanting to add a battery close to the amp as I prepare for a new, much more powerful amplifier to come in. I will not be running a battery isolator in between the two, just a single run of fused 1/0 wire.
    I have narrowed my choices to either:

    another identical group 65 battery (68 amp hour and $168 out the door)

    or a Northstart SMS-AGM80 "Dedicated Secordary Barttery" (40 amp hour and $199 shipped).

    Obviously the better deal is the parts store AGM as it gives me more amp hours at a cheaper price...

    My questions are:

    What is the difference between a "starting" AGM and a "Dedicated Secondary" AGM? Or is that as I suspect and there is no difference other than just marketing

    And 2. If the resting voltage of both batteries is say 12.8v fully charged, then how are people able to hold a steady 14v or more during a demo? I understand the alt charges at slightly more than 14v, but during an excessive and loud demo, I've seen some "solid electrical" vehicles (which is mostly just a 270 Alt and a battery bank) not drop under 14v at the amp. How is this possible? Once you run through the amperage supplied by the alt and you start going above that point, then you must rely of your battery bank to fill the gap or the headroom above what the alt can supply. And since they are only able to hold less than 13v, it would make sense to me that the overall system voltage at the amp would then drop. Am I right here? I might be overthinking this a bit

  4. Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3
    #4
    I currently run a new group 65 parts store AGM under the hood and a 370 CES alt. I'm now wanting to add a battery close to the amp as I prepare for a new, much more powerful amplifier to come in. I will not be running a battery isolator in between the two, just a single run of fused 1/0 wire.
    I have narrowed my choices to either:

    another identical group 65 battery (68 amp hour and $168 out the door)

    or a Northstart SMS-AGM80 "Dedicated Secordary Barttery" (40 amp hour and $199 shipped).

    Obviously the better deal is the parts store AGM as it gives me more amp hours at a cheaper price...

    My questions are:

    What is the difference between a "starting" AGM and a "Dedicated Secondary" AGM? Or is that as I suspect and there is no difference other than just marketing

    And 2. If the resting voltage of both batteries is say 12.8v fully charged, then how are people able to hold a steady 14v or more during a demo? I understand the alt charges at slightly more than 14v, but during an excessive and loud demo, I've seen some "solid electrical" vehicles (which is mostly just a 270 Alt and a battery bank) not drop under 14v at the amp. How is this possible? Once you run through the amperage supplied by the alt and you start going above that point, then you must rely of your battery bank to fill the gap or the headroom above what the alt can supply. And since they are only able to hold less than 13v, it would make sense to me that the overall system voltage at the amp would then drop. Am I right here? I might be overthinking this a bit



    issue solved!!

  5. Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3
    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by bluwave View Post
    Mga sirs.. need your expertise. I just recently bought a 2004 honda accord and i dont have thr remote when i got it. The alarm wont turn off and blinking lights and horn all the time. Steps taken to try to disable it

    1. Disconnect reconnect bat https://discord.software/ FetLife
    2. Unlock lock unlock driver side door and seitch on engine for 10mins
    3. Put a jumper to connect the hood line sensor
    4. Sent it the car off to an accesory shop to havr a new alarm system insatalled

    With all the procedures done, my oem alarm still cannot be disabled and turned off..

    What next to do..? Thanks in advance for the mga masters..

    Thank you my issue has been solved,...

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Honda accord 2004 anti theft oem alarm disable