Results 371 to 380 of 747
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September 16th, 2011 05:31 AM #371
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September 16th, 2011 07:09 AM #372
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September 16th, 2011 07:25 AM #373
i have opened up my test ballast several months ago to check the possibility of boosting it up. these the things that i found out.
- internal components are potted , this makes the ballast waterproof.
- top and bottom parts are insulated by potting material against the thin metal cover. so IMO this is not the place to connect the heatsink.
- the mosfets that generate most of the heat are actually mounted on the side of the casing which is thick and is actually used as the heatsink. this should be the part of the casing to mount the heatsink if you want to install them.
and yes, I'm also more concerned on the effect of heat generated by the bulb to the projector reflector bowl rather than the heat of the ballast.
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September 16th, 2011 08:08 AM #374
i wish you have oem ballasts for those kickass TL projectors. even the 5five ballasts heat is minimal. better performance overall and safer and compatible for your bulbs. although you might have something in mind with your electronics knowhow.
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September 16th, 2011 09:03 AM #375
I'm been itching to install my TL with OEM Philips 85122+ bulbs but too busy at work. The new 5five ballast is still not available at the moment. I'm doing the shield mod and lens spacing to have the perfect cut-off. The philips when powered by 55 watts is just too yellow for my taste. I planning to sell them and get the Osram CBI FTW!
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September 16th, 2011 10:12 AM #376
any electronics will need to dissipate heat. the sidewall of the ballast that you claim that act as a heatsink will still transfer the heat towards the front and back metal portions(through conduction), any metal will still conduct heat therefore making additional heatsink a viable option. (conduction>>>thermal convection= lower temps).. the exhaust of a car is not directly attached to the frame of the car but still if you touch your carpet its warm...
the temperature generated by the bulb is moot, we cannot do anything to make the temperature of the bulb go down, unless you go below 35 watts hid.. there is a thread on the hid planet conducting test on different bulb, it includes heat, cool down re-strike, and warm up time and including lumens and amperage draw.. from what i can remember the Chinese brands are at par with performance vs. OEM's and only looses to longevity..
for me if the reflector bowl gets fried in a span two years, that is still money well spent... maybe then there are gen10 models...
personally, i dont think the gen5 bowl will be melting anytime soon... the 55 watt ballast bulb heat increase is only around 10 to 15 degrees.
if money is not a factor i really want to go the all retrofit way.. quad projectors(fxr x4)hehe/ OEM bulbs/OEM ballast/ the whole nine yards, but it will cost an arm and a leg and maybe the torso..
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September 16th, 2011 10:40 AM #377
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September 16th, 2011 12:05 PM #378
mikko if someone can carry them in, maybe the cost will just be purchasing it from TRS for you. plus (borrow) dremel and mounting tools and sealants, but i don't think about those anymore, too giddy with the DIY project. and whatever business keeps you from completing the project, prolongs the excitement. it also gives you a lot of time figuring the best way to go about things. junkie over here
time to start the "DIY HID Retrofit Club" thread already
yes Gen 10. also LED headlights incoming. endless hobbies
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September 16th, 2011 04:47 PM #379
DIY HID Retrofit Club- nice idea indiej.... that would be nice.really nice.hehe
shipping is the problem, its expensive.. but hey balikbayan box is an option... im also planning into retrofitting my ride completely, im planning on using FXR's on main beam.. but I'll tinker a bit. i saw a 70-100 watt hid in a forum abroad...
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September 16th, 2011 07:57 PM #380
No offense meant on my previous post. There's no harm in putting a heatsink on the ballast as it aids in dissipating heat. In fact I have heatsinks installed on my 1st set of slim ballasts. The heat on these slims are much more than the ordinary ballast. Note also that the casing are way thicker including the front and back cover compared to the standard ballast.
But to dissipate heat efficiently, the heatsink should be placed on a solid/thick portion of the casing and closest to the component where excessive heat is generated. That's the reason why I suggested to put the heatsink on the sides rather than on the front/back cover which is too thin to efficiently dissipate heat. As shown on the next picture, components are too far from the front/back cover to transfer heat.
that may be, but we all got plastic, young and old. we asked the lto guy, "papel ba po, o...
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