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  1. Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    1
    #21
    Mga Sirs,

    Bring along a trustee mechanic, muntikan na ko makabili ng flooded Honda City 04 VTEC MT sa Mindanao Ave... Good thing kasama ko Tito ko who checked the car.

    Galing nila mag-linis wala ko masabi lalo na yung pinakita engine, kng di mo check yung mga upholster lalo na sa roof baka kunin mo na yng unit..hehe

    Nakita ng Tito ko may rust yung ilalim ng dashboard tapos di na maayos yng mga seals sa loob may nalalaglag. Dala kayo ng flashlight to check.

    Beware of that seller, Color nung unit electric Blue

  2. Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    11
    #22
    thaks po ng marami sa idea nyo , gagawin ko ung ibang tips na yan kc kung halos lahat yan susundin ko at d nabili ung car at nabwesit sa akin ung owner baka pag labas ko ng bahay pagulpi ako sa kanto nila heheheh joke anyway salamat po.

  3. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    29,354
    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by jaguar12084 View Post
    thaks po ng marami sa idea nyo , gagawin ko ung ibang tips na yan kc kung halos lahat yan susundin ko at d nabili ung car at nabwesit sa akin ung owner baka pag labas ko ng bahay pagulpi ako sa kanto nila heheheh joke anyway salamat po.

    [SIZE="4"]REMINDER: do not post messages in SMS/TXT shortcut format & grammar. Use proper grammar, sentence and paragraph construction. If your message is easier to read, more people will read it.

    Read the rules.

    Ignorance of the rules is NOT an excuse.

    Repeat offenses will lead to banning.
    [/SIZE]

  4. Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    827
    #24
    One thing I do is open up the hood. Check the metal around the corners....check that everything has a nice fluid motion. You shouldn't see any welding.

    Check alignment of the doors. the spaces between the door n body of the car should be the same. With the door open, doors should open smoothly, and close with a flick of the wrist or a little nudge. You sholudn't have to exert a bunch of effort to close the door.

    Windows should go up n down easily.

    When test driving it..let go of the steering wheel, the car should still continue to go straight on a flat road.

    Check the tires..should be even. use a coin to check the wear..that it's even. Uneven wear shoes problems.

  5. Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    24,726
    #25
    [SIZE=2]Here is a sample list of things to chech as well; HTH COMPILED WITH THE HELP OF TSIKOT.[/SIZE]
    Tips in checking a Car
    [SIZE=3]a.[/SIZE] [SIZE=3] Chassis - [/SIZE]Look for corrosion, both outside structures and with flashlight as far as you can see inside the chassis (use ventilation holes as looking points). If chassis is in ok condition, then continue checking
    *hint: flashlight, screwdriver and little hammer are useful tools when digging out condition of chassis*

    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]b.[/SIZE] Body - Look corrosion around windshield and front of the car. Also lower parts of doors are to be checked as well as lower rear section from end of the car.
    If you suspect that any parts are repaired with moldings paste instead of welded metal, use light magnet to find this out. Magnet will not stick to molding paste, but will stay on painted metal. At same time check lower parts of each doors, also boot door. Same thing with wheel arches, there may be some corrosion and it's a usual place where it begins to corrode. Bottom of the car we check later on.

    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]c.[/SIZE] Motor
    - general overview first, how does engine room look like (clean or dirty, oily). Test that all belts are tight and batteries are well mounted onto their place and nothing is loose or broken (of course when working at engineroom engine must be off)

    - Start engine and listen how it sounds, how does engine sound at idle run, normal driving round revs and also engine must reach max. revs. No "alarming" extra noises allowed or unsteady running. Wait for 5 mins while reviewing the headlights, signal lights, horns, power windows, locks and power side view mirror. After 5 mins (and engine still running, rev the engine to 3,500 rpm for 30 seconds and then open the engine oil cap to check if there is back-pressure or if oil is coming-out of the engine – a sign of engine overhauling…BAD omen. Should automatically ask for 20-25K DISCOUNT due to needed repair.

    [SIZE=3]d.[/SIZE] Turbo - must not leak oil, also make sure that over boost valve and intake manifolds works properly. If turbo leaks oil, it's broken.
    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]e.[/SIZE] 4X4 Gearbox - Transfer gear have next selective areas. 2H, this is normal rear-wheel driving mode, 4H, this is normal 4-wheel driving mode, 4L, this is low range driving mode which is meant to use only off road use or when needing most pulling or towing capability. Rear axle have lock which can be used only when 4L is connected.
    Test drive the car and test all driving modes and that rear axle lock is operational. Test 4-wheel drive modes on non gripping surface, snowy, muddy or icy field. Differences on 4-wheel drives come out most easily when testing on non grip surfaces.
    During test drive no alarming noises must be heard and both gearbox and transfer box operation must be fluent.

    STOP THE ENGINE.
    [SIZE=3]f.[/SIZE] Axles, joints, bearings etc.
    i. starting from the front of the car - Wheel bearings, no vertical or horizontal loose movement is allowed. Also no "squeaky" sounds are accepted. Those are sure marks that bearing are broken and need replacing. Also broken bearing is serious risk at traffic, if bearing(s) broke, lost of control of vehicle is certain.
    ii. Ball joints, driving stabilizers and their mounting must be firm and in condition, these also affect to handling and driving, check these also very carefully.
    iii. Check that spring mounting points are in condition; most likely you will find corrosion here, slight corrosion is normal but metal under corrosion must be in good firm condition, also look at shock absorbers mounting and their condition. These also affect to both driving stability and are a matter of security, don't overlook these.

    Check that ball joints don't have loose movement, if they are loose then they are in need of replacing, ball joints can be re-greased and if greasing has been ignored then joints will worn out quicker. There are five greasing point at front, two upper steering joints, L and R side, lower steering joint greasing points L and R side also and steering arms greasing joint. Those nibbles are meant to grease by owner/at service. Greasing is at minimum of two times a year.
    Look that front drive axles protective rubbers are not broken, if they are broken then there is a big risk that front drive shafts will broke soon because sand, or any dirt will break drives there.

    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]g.[/SIZE] Drive shafts

    Check that cross joints are tight and well greased. If they are loose or even broke then they are in replaceable condition. There are greasing nibbles also at drive shafts and shafts are meant to be greased. Greasing minimum two times a year.
    *hint: when greasing, push grease until it comes out by itself, overcoming means that there is enough grease for the moment*

    Drive shaft can have loose turning radius movement 1/16 parts of a turn, this is approx. 22 degrees. This is measured when wheel are not at air, gear neutral and turning drive shaft, when gearbox and rear axle starts to resist loose movement stop turning, this loose movement between resisting points is 22 degrees, no more.

    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    RE-START THE ENGINE (and OPERATE THE AIRCON)
    [SIZE=3]h.[/SIZE] Brakes
    - they must work perfectly and nothing less is acceptable. Look the condition of brake pads and discs, if they are badly worn they need to be replaced. Rear discs must not be rusty, if they are then rear brake saddles are not in condition.

    Test handbrake and that its operational, this is simple. Drive car to 30 degree slope, push brakes and pull handbrake 5-7 clicks, then release footbrake and car must stay on place just with handbrake, if not, then handbrake in not working ok, simple as that.

    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]i.[/SIZE] Checking the conversion - paano i-check? visually, dashboard. check mo kung putol o hindi.(if hindi putol, much better siyempre) Check mo pitman arm, tie rods at ang ilalim kung may putol at welding(Kapag walang putol, malinis ay good conversion yan).
    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]j.[/SIZE] [SIZE=3]Air condition system – check if it’s working properly, is cooling well. The DUAL aircon in the 2nd row must be working properly as well. (if not, discount uli since ipapagawa ito).[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3](Minor things for converted cars)[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]k.[/SIZE] [SIZE=3]LASTLY - other things to watch for converted cars would be side mirrors (replace or realign) position of wiper stalks and headlights stalks are interchanged, wipers on reverse orientation, sunroof/moonroof tends to leak, shifters are on a reversed position, handbrake on the passenger side, no foot vents on aircon, power window switches are interchanged, dashboard have cracks, engine number on the driver side (which makes it harder to get the stencil for registration)[/SIZE]
    Fasten your seatbelt! Or else... Driven To Thrill!

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Checklist Before Buying a 2nd Hand Car.