Where can I get soundproofing for hood/firewall/floors/headliner/etc.?

[jhnkvn]

Kahit sino sa kanila boss? Tumatangap din kaya sila ng card?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

Nope. With the probable exception of DawgAudio (they cater to the mid-to-high end market kasi in terms of services), those in Banawe doesn't have POS systems that you can take advantage of credit cards. Cash lang sila

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As to whether to cheapen your deadeners or not, that's up to you. In most cases, I highly advice paying extra for butyl rubber deadeners over asphalt. You might not see the benefits now or a year after but you'll eventually reap its benefits for fewer headaches down the road. The only time I can suggest asphalt is for floor deadener use.

A copy-paste of "melting deadenings" topic in KAC's Total Audio section:

Deadening
by iddle_hans on Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:35 am

Mga sir quick question normal lang ba na nag melt yung deadening pag mainit ang araw? Natutunaw kasi yung sakin installed by candyshop hassle kasi ilang jeans ko na ang namachahan eh

Thanks
iddle_hans
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:50 pm
Location: paranaque

Re: Deadening
by jhnkvn on Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:18 am

As manufacturers such as Dynamat, Second Skin, STP, etc. use different compositions on their sound deadener/insulation sheets, it's hard to tell which percentage composes what. However, usual cheapo stick-and-run types of deadeners (those costing around 250 pesos per sheet) are usually asphalt-based rather than butyl rubber because, for one, asphalt is cheap.

Problem here is that asphalt isn't really recommended for in-car applications especially in a hot and humid environment such as the Philippines. Rubberized asphalt has a rather low melting point (hence natutunaw) compared to rubberized butyl. It also becomes hard and brittle on negative or low temperatures while it becomes soft and melts at 80 degrees Celsius. And that melting point is actually pretty easy to reach once you think about the number of hours your paint's exposed to the sun. Of course, this number changes based on the material grade (there's also low and high grade asphalt/butyl/rubber) and composition but keep it as a general rule of thumb.

This is where the "you-get-what-you-pay-for" in terms of long-term headache free maintenance. This is also the reason I try to tell off people using asphalt-based sheets.

[jay185]

Nope. With the probable exception of DawgAudio (they cater to the mid-to-high end market kasi in terms of services), those in Banawe doesn't have POS systems that you can take advantage of credit cards. Cash lang sila

===
As to whether to cheapen your deadeners or not, that's up to you. In most cases, I highly advice paying extra for butyl rubber deadeners over asphalt. You might not see the benefits now or a year after but you'll eventually reap its benefits for fewer headaches down the road. The only time I can suggest asphalt is for floor deadener use.

A copy-paste of "melting deadenings" topic in KAC's Total Audio section:

Deadening
by iddle_hans on Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:35 am

Mga sir quick question normal lang ba na nag melt yung deadening pag mainit ang araw? Natutunaw kasi yung sakin installed by candyshop hassle kasi ilang jeans ko na ang namachahan eh

Thanks
iddle_hans
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:50 pm
Location: paranaque

Re: Deadening
by jhnkvn on Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:18 am

As manufacturers such as Dynamat, Second Skin, STP, etc. use different compositions on their sound deadener/insulation sheets, it's hard to tell which percentage composes what. However, usual cheapo stick-and-run types of deadeners (those costing around 250 pesos per sheet) are usually asphalt-based rather than butyl rubber because, for one, asphalt is cheap.

Problem here is that asphalt isn't really recommended for in-car applications especially in a hot and humid environment such as the Philippines. Rubberized asphalt has a rather low melting point (hence natutunaw) compared to rubberized butyl. It also becomes hard and brittle on negative or low temperatures while it becomes soft and melts at 80 degrees Celsius. And that melting point is actually pretty easy to reach once you think about the number of hours your paint's exposed to the sun. Of course, this number changes based on the material grade (there's also low and high grade asphalt/butyl/rubber) and composition but keep it as a general rule of thumb.

This is where the "you-get-what-you-pay-for" in terms of long-term headache free maintenance. This is also the reason I try to tell off people using asphalt-based sheets.

Thanks canvass na lang kung sino sa kanila ang cheaper.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[wezz_zzew]

If you have a good covered parking space pwede na din ung asphalt type na deadening lalo na kung limited budget. OTH, if you have the extra dough, mas maganda ung butyl type.