HELP: Couldn't Remove Rough Stuff from my Paint

[Starex_Gold]

hehehe ask nyo na lang rin po si sir Starex_Gold.. sa kanya po ako natuto

bakit ako nadamay dito?

[Chikselog]

bakit ako nadamay dito?

hehehe..sa inyo ko lang po natutunan halos lahat ng tungkol sa detailing eh

[madkatz]

*karuro: claying when done properly is relatively harmless. the only time claying can be dangerous and can but not limited to reducing paint, actually more on inducing swirls is when your clay surface is full of dirt and debris and you forgot to check and knead it and you still go on claying. thats why its so important to know that in claying you should often turn and knead your clay so that you don't rub those particles with your paint inducing more swirls in the process. In my opinion any kind of friction can reduce paint even if its just on a microscopic level that's why its very important to properly lubricate the surface while claying. Using QD and water+car shampoo more would greatly lubricate the surface greatly reducing the chances of inducing swirls. what i do is clay half a panel and knead it to a clean and spot free bar and then clay the next half or the next panel.

* chickselog: my BF and i share this account so its ma'am for the mean time hahaha. it is true that proper paint preparation is important in producing outstanding shine and durability. claying and polishes can remove contaminants, and paint cleaners can prepare the paint for layering of step 2 and 3 or step 3 directly and bond step 3 better. however chances are you will end up with a better deeper wet shine rather than a durable finish. you see the weather we have here is quite harsh actually, step 3 based on my experience doesn't last longer than 3 weeks for my daily drive and doesn't last longer than a month and a half for my garage queen car. if its a durable finish you are after why don't you try and explore the line of synthetic waxes? i would recommend the reflections line of mothers (advance wax + topcoat). reflections based on experience could probably outlast 3 step system for about 2 more weeks in terms of durability. the only reason why i use step 3 is because it has a deeper wet carnauba shine that looks really nice on my fireball red and blue sapphire car. one more suggestion would be trying more durable waxes, my favorite durable wax would be collinite 915, if you know someone coming home from the US or have the extra cash try it, it lasts as long as a sealant but has the same wetness of step 3. its really durable since it lasted me a little over 3 months, downside though is that its a bit harder to apply and has a bad chemical smell but overall its a really tough and wet wax, sadly im down to one last application which im saving for my black innova. another thing would be to also invest on spray waxes and use them every after you wash your car, just mist some on and wipe off, this though in some small way also helps in prolonging your waxes durablity.

Ps. i would agree with jmpet626 that step 1 2 and 3 just hides swirls and it does not remove them. it does a great job of hiding and masking them though. if you really want to remove swirls permanently again i agree that you should use polishes. always start with the least abrassive when it comes to polishes and work your way up, and worse comes to worse rubbing compound.

*mda: claying cannot remove scratches from clear coat, it can and at times remove those fine dark and dirty particles inside the scratches though which makes it a lot cleaner to look at. like i said above, when it comes to polishing, always use the least aggressive polish first and then try a stronger polish, if the scratch is still there you could try a scratch remover, Megs scratch X for around 800 if you have the cash, and 3m scratch remover around 290 pesos if you're on a budget. and if its still there, or if you just want one shot product to do the job and opted for a rubbing compound, you could get 3m sachets at stores for about 40 pesos, get 2 and you can do an entire car.

Hope this helps guys

[Chikselog]

*karuro: claying when done properly is relatively harmless. the only time claying can be dangerous and can but not limited to reducing paint, actually more on inducing swirls is when your clay surface is full of dirt and debris and you forgot to check and knead it and you still go on claying. thats why its so important to know that in claying you should often turn and knead your clay so that you don't rub those particles with your paint inducing more swirls in the process. In my opinion any kind of friction can reduce paint even if its just on a microscopic level that's why its very important to properly lubricate the surface while claying. Using QD and water+car shampoo more would greatly lubricate the surface greatly reducing the chances of inducing swirls. what i do is clay half a panel and knead it to a clean and spot free bar and then clay the next half or the next panel.

* chickselog: my BF and i share this account so its ma'am for the mean time hahaha. it is true that proper paint preparation is important in producing outstanding shine and durability. claying and polishes can remove contaminants, and paint cleaners can prepare the paint for layering of step 2 and 3 or step 3 directly and bond step 3 better. however chances are you will end up with a better deeper wet shine rather than a durable finish. you see the weather we have here is quite harsh actually, step 3 based on my experience doesn't last longer than 3 weeks for my daily drive and doesn't last longer than a month and a half for my garage queen car. if its a durable finish you are after why don't you try and explore the line of synthetic waxes? i would recommend the reflections line of mothers (advance wax + topcoat). reflections based on experience could probably outlast 3 step system for about 2 more weeks in terms of durability. the only reason why i use step 3 is because it has a deeper wet carnauba shine that looks really nice on my fireball red and blue sapphire car. one more suggestion would be trying more durable waxes, my favorite durable wax would be collinite 915, if you know someone coming home from the US or have the extra cash try it, it lasts as long as a sealant but has the same wetness of step 3. its really durable since it lasted me a little over 3 months, downside though is that its a bit harder to apply and has a bad chemical smell but overall its a really tough and wet wax, sadly im down to one last application which im saving for my black innova. another thing would be to also invest on spray waxes and use them every after you wash your car, just mist some on and wipe off, this though in some small way also helps in prolonging your waxes durablity.

Ps. i would agree with jmpet626 that step 1 2 and 3 just hides swirls and it does not remove them. it does a great job of hiding and masking them though. if you really want to remove swirls permanently again i agree that you should use polishes. always start with the least abrassive when it comes to polishes and work your way up, and worse comes to worse rubbing compound.

*mda: claying cannot remove scratches from clear coat, it can and at times remove those fine dark and dirty particles inside the scratches though which makes it a lot cleaner to look at. like i said above, when it comes to polishing, always use the least aggressive polish first and then try a stronger polish, if the scratch is still there you could try a scratch remover, Megs scratch X for around 800 if you have the cash, and 3m scratch remover around 290 pesos if you're on a budget. and if its still there, or if you just want one shot product to do the job and opted for a rubbing compound, you could get 3m sachets at stores for about 40 pesos, get 2 and you can do an entire car.

Hope this helps guys

thank you for this ma'am
now that i've bought the mom's claykit (finally ) will I cut one piece into half? and what is the recommended "shape" of the clay before I do the claying? yung knead po ba para lang din gumagawa ng pandesal?

[Chikselog]

double post sorry..anyway thanks to madkatz! even your reply to mda and karuro helped me.. i was about to ask about that

[LexTer]

ang gaas, nakaka ubos ng clearcoat yan.

SG. as long na huhugasan kaagad, hindi ito makaka apekto sa clearcoat.

[madkatz]

*chickselog: you don't have to cut the claybar, its actually more of personal preference, i prefer my claybars a bit sizeable since i kinda have clumsy hands and working with a small piece might make it slip off my little hand. As for me the amount of clay i find that one of the mothers clay kit pack is just about the right size. As for the shape its also more on personal preference, but for me i usually mold it into a bar so i can dig my fingers on the side to have it contoured on my hand to help avoid slipping. as for claying those crevices i mold it into a circle, and then a triangle for the grills and decalls part.

As for your question with kneading, its not really just mashing and kneading like it is in bread, with clay its more like getting the dirty layer and folding it inside, and getting a fresh layer and spreading the clean part outside. what i usually do it just fold a fresh layer on top of the dirtly layer and repeat the process everytime i feel the clay starts to get grits.

O yeah try not to drop the claybar or have it contaminated, and in the occasion that you do, especially if you drop it on the floor, stop don't use it, experts say that you should never use it again, but for me i just get tweezer and pick out those stones and particles that got stuck and go back to claying, so far since im a bit meticulous in picking on the one time it happened, the same clay that fell still worked wonders and still doesn't give me swirls and scratches.

i hope this helps, good luck on claying, someday you will be a good detailer.