Detailing Thread [For Newbies][ARCHIVED]

[madkatz]

*mau: yup you can use Mothers chrome polish for glasses, but of course specifically dedicated glass polishes are better as compared to this, but mother chrome polish can definitely outmatch any cheap OTC out there.

[madkatz]

*probpt: well as far as i know if you just apply Nano systematic care you don't need to cure it that long you should give it only about 1 to 2 hours, only the Long life sealant needs to be cured for a minimum of 12 hours but preferably 24 hours, there were some instances in my case that hazing could occur when cured 12 hours and below.

Next that would depend on which Collinite you would be using? 845? 476? 915? If you plan on layering these waxes, which is recommended since you haven't really applied a long lasting LSP like Long Life Sealant. Then layering waxes would be a nice way to go. Sadly 845 based on experience doesn't have that much difference when layered, only Collinites paste waxes have a significant advantage when layered which are 476 and 915.

With regards to your question, it would be always best to wash the car since you already drove it outside, why? because when you drive your car outside even if it still looks clean, dirt particles may already be lodged to the paint cause of the speed of the vehicle traveling and hitting dusts, this not only sits on the paint but in some cases takes more than QD to remove and since you would be waxing, pressure while waxing might dislodge these particles and cause swirls. Another reason to wash your car would be because of the oily films cars get during traffic.

One more thing is because if you use QD's, some QD's (not all) contains nourishing oils and polymers and this might cause a problem with the wax properly sticking/bonding on the paint.

When i layer waxes (not sealants) i always wait for 8 hours to fully cure, then i just use a duster or MF towel and then gently glide them over the paint to remove the dusts accumulated within those 8 hours before i put on another coating, the same can be said about the Nano systematic care, actually sometimes i just put on the NSC and then wait for 1 hour before i remove it and wait another hour or two to cure it and then i go directly to waxing already.

[Chikselog]

*madkatz
Ahh i see.. BTW, do you know how to remove bird drop etching on the paint? it kinda like ate through the clearcoat and it looks cracked or something. I'll post pics tomorrow. Damn it looks ugly

[madkatz]

*chickselog: you could try using some swirlX to buff out the top layer to make it less visible

[probpt]

*madkatz

I'll be using the Collinite 845 on top of the Carlack LLS (Sorry I forgot to mention that I used both the NSC and LLS).

I'll follow your advise regarding washing the car. Better to be safe than sorry, right? But if the car just sits in the garage between applications, going over the car with a cali duster or MF towel is enough.

BTW, I have the Megs Ultimate QD, will using that between applications cause the situation/problem you mentioned?

What would be a good monthly combo for the three products I am using (NSC, LLS, 845)? Is it even advisable to apply the LLS monthly or should it be quarterly?

Thanks!

[madkatz]

*probpt: yeah its better to wash if you drove it outside, but if its just sits on the garage dusting will do. oh yeah next time you use NSC you could immediately follow it up with LLS

As for the UQD, i would recommend against it since it does state that it does leave behind water repellent polymers and even requires about 24 hours to cure properly, i would recommend this after applying all LSP's

As for the combo, you could put on 845 every 2 to 4 weeks, and then LLS quarterly and then NSC every half year. 845 would be your primary layer since its the easiest to apply, then i would recommend you use LLS after claying quarterly just to make sure you add on that extra layer and then NSC bi-annually since this is a cleaner and technically it should remove what ever existing layer of LSP you have so when you use NSC basically you remove all those layered LLS. so you have to re-apply again

[Chikselog]

I need a BIG What can I do about this?

Just when you thought things can't get worse..Nabagsakan ng sampayan ang kotse GREAT!! JUST GREAT!

AND THE RESULTS:
Scratch on the Upper Side of the Rear Left door.



Dent (or whatever it's called) on the Rear Left Door.




Di na pantay yung shape ng door when you look at it in sideview. I'll try to post pics tomorrow, I was in school when this happened and it ruined my day BIG TIME. Pics were taken gabi na. Sorry for the crappy pics. I'm tired and gabi na ang hirap kumuha.

[madkatz]

*chickselog: oh dear, im sorry to hear that, as for the dent you could have Paintless Dent Repair done, that would cost your around 300 to 500 bucks, and if you're lucky like my friend he only had it done for 100 pesos. As for the first picture, buffing and polishing it would greatly help improve the appearance but im sure it won't be totally removed. BTW check ur inbox im sent you a PM regarding your swirls solution, im still not sure if my BF would agree helping in buffing your car but he does seem ok with the idea.

[rensom]

Di naman kailangan kung ano ano pang wax ang gagamitin ninyo.... its a waste of time and money.... Tamang linis at tamang wax lang na di na kailangan hanapin kung saan saan.....

Sa akin nakukuha ko kintab na ito sa murang wax lang......

[FasTrac]

found some sites to help you with your questions

http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/applicationguide/

then DL the pad application guide, you would notice that in the guide white pads are for polishes and black are for glazes, both blue and red fall in the same category and fall under polishes again so i guess it doesn't make that much difference, and the gold falls under pure waxes and sealants

and in here

http://www.pinnaclewax.com/lakecount...er-how-to.html

you would notice that the black red and blue all fall under one category which falls under final finishing so i guess its safe to say they really are pretty much the same, and as far as i know i haven't seen any final finishing or ultra fine finishing polishes available locally, and the only ones i have are Optimum polymers and Menzerna's which are all from the US. they didn't even classify gold in their page, so i guess gold is purely for applying waxes and sealants only and maybe buffing it to a high gloss, but then again you still have to follow this up with a MF, and one last tip, if you plan on jeweling your paint using the gold pad, always check it for dried waxes and sealants that cake or powder after each panel, this is the only problem i've encountered with the gold pad, since you have to work it longer chances are by the time you're done with one panel some pores have already started to harden or build up and these builds up can cause swirls yet again.

but again for me from black to gold, all of them are the same for me, try to check out jon's detail on the CRV using the black pad, the one when he used power polish and followed with reflections, the result was already like he jeweled the paint, its so clean and glossy.

*MADKATZ- pls help...Due to the good results these LC pads giving you, im now interested to buy a set. I have gone over the LC website, found out several kinds of pads (wool,foam...etc) and types of pads(yellow,white,black..etc.). But based on your experience, what is the best pad to use and the color to choose?
Another question, what im using now for polishing& buffing is the Black&decker orbital polisher, can i instantly use the pads on this polisher?
If not, is there a need to buy an adapter, backing plate..etc for the pads to be applicable on my Black&decker? Or the LC pads only for Porter Cable 7424? enlighten me pls....thanks

[madkatz]

*rensom: well getting good looking paint depends more on proper paint preparation, so if a car already has a nice finish then even if is not waxed it will look nice, and in the same way if a paint is not in good condition no matter how you wax or what kind of wax you put on it will not look nice.

I also agree with your point that people don't have to spend that much to get a nice shine, even Turtle Wax or 3m Sachets will look great once put on blemish free paint. I've even used unpopular brands like J21(so called the first filipino made wax) and 21st element(what local carwash use for cheap alternative to waxes) both look great on my paint.

But i guess the reason why people spend more to find these waxes would be the added bonuses you could get from them. Im sort of a lazy person and i detail a lot of cars every month, mostly my friends, and so i don't want to wax my car every month and thats the reason why i looked for imported more durable waxes, i honestly can't find any local over the counter wax that could last Caloocan environment for more than 1 month and still feel smooth, bead water and prevent water spots. I guess some people just feel a bit OC about their cars looks that they look for better waxes. Some waxes last a very long time, some waxes fill scratches, some waxes clean the paint, some waxes polish, some waxes also have sealants, there's a lot of things about waxes and i guess its just a matter of personal preference. So i guess the same goes as to how people define waste of money, for some it might not be a waste of money for some it might be. If thats your take then i respect your decision.

Thats why when someone asks me or Pm's me about what they should buy, i always ask how much their budget is and how far are they willing to go and what are their goals. If their reason is simply to put on some layer of wax then a 40 peso sachet of 3m SCLW would already last you 2 applications but if they want mirror like shine that would bead water for months and months then thats a different story.

As for me if spending a few more $ to buy a wax from the US would save me a sunday morning of having to wax again for me thats well worth the extra money im paying for, although waxing should really be done monthly this is my shortcut hehe. Thats my primary reason why i buy those kinds of waxes. My second reason is i just simply enjoy collecting things, i already have more than 50+ waxes. And to be honest after using nearly all of them it is true that in terms of appearance the visual difference is only small and sometimes even negligible but hey this is a detailing thread and when you say detailing its like being a perfectionist where every detail is brought to the best condition it could be, so its not unusual to see people going great lengths just to achieve the best in their car, its like if a local wax costs 400 pesos and that would give you 90% some people who are perfectionist wouldn't mind spending thousands for that last 10%

Nice shine BTW, your paint really looks clean and blemish free, maybe you could post what wax you used just so people out there might opt for a cheaper alternative, its always nice to give honest reviews about waxes and your posting pictures would help a lot for those planning to wax thats on a tight budget.

[ess]

Due to the good results these LC pads giving you, im now interested to buy a set. I have gone over the LC website, found out several kinds of pads (wool,foam...etc) and types of pads(yellow,white,black..etc.). But based on your experience, what is the best pad to use and the color to choose?

That depends on the condition of your car's paint. If your paint only has moderate swirling and light scratches, then you only need to get a polishing pad and a finishing pad. You only need a cutting pad if your paint is severely neglected. I'm not familiar with the LC pad colors since I prefer using Megs pads. For Megs pads, I stick to Yellow (polishing) and Beige (finishing). I do have a Maroon (cutting) but I've yet to use it.

Another question, what im using now for polishing& buffing is the Black&decker orbital polisher, can i instantly use the pads on this polisher?
If not, is there a need to buy an adapter, backing plate..etc for the pads to be applicable on my Black&decker? Or the LC pads only for Porter Cable 7424? enlighten me pls....thanks

Are you referring to the B&D KP600 orbital? If so then no, the backing plate of the KP600 is more or less permanently fixed on the machine. If you want to push your luck (like I did years ago...hehehe), you can buy a couple of velcro strips to attach to the KP600's backing plate. That will enable it to accept hook&loop type pads.

HOWEVER, you must remember that the KP600's motor might not have enough torque to drive the LC pads and may cause the motor to seize when you try to use it with the LC pad.

If you want to use the LC pad, you must move up to a more powerful machine like a dedicated ROP (random orbital) a Rotary.

[madkatz]

I just want to vent out my frustration and anger simply because i have to. I was cruising along 6th avenue around 11am this morning to withdraw money from the bank when suddenly a tricycle came out of a smaller street really fast. The things is... HE WAS NOT LOOKING LEFT!!! Its like the most basic thing when crossing the road or driving, look left then look right correct? And this guy goes out full speed thinking the road is all clear without looking left only looking right. So i hit the breaks and the horn and to no avail the tricycle smacks my car drags the whole steering bar across the passenger door all the way to the rear punctures and breaks my fiber glass. At first i got down yelling at him and he was apologizing. Then things took a turn for the worse, some tricycle driver passing by suddenly came over to look, well so i though they would just look until they all end up blaming me. THESE GUYS WEREN'T EVEN THERE WHEN THE ACCIDENT HAPPENED AND THEY'RE BLAMING ME!?!?!? And mister tricycle driver suddenly changes his statement from saying sorry to blaming me, i guess this time he got the balls since there's more than 6 tricycle drivers now. I am the one on the major road and i have the right of way! Whats pissing me off was when they all started to surround me, and when they started ganging up on me forcing me to pay, and i guess it doesn't help if you're just a 106 pound girl right? I FEEL SO HARASSED!!! SOME WHERE EVEN PUSHING ME!!! So i got pissed and went back to my car and took off, and went to calm down at the bank until i noticed i left a fiber glass cladding and went back to take it this time with some of my male friends.

My dad being Chinese always told me to leave those people alone and that we can't do anything about these things. Im just so pissed on how twisted our country is that when you own a car and when a jeep or tricycle hits you the stigma is that you just let them fly. How i wish karma would really work and hit that A-holes life for 3x more than what he did to me!














How i wish i was driving my dad's Land Cruiser when i hit him, that im sure i'll be the one smiling after. Quoted for 20k over all repairs and its that much because it has to be coated again with PPG Ceramiclear.

So chickselog, i hope this gives you a reason to breath and let your maid slide. hahaha just when i was telling myself you got unlucky the next day i got hit harder. O wells thats life, i just hope God gives me justice.

[madkatz]

*FasTrac: Haha this is going to be long but i'll see how far i can explain things and i'll explain the others after, i so need to go out right now to take my mind of things especially with what happened in my previous post.

Okay, lets start.

Basically there really are a lot of different kinds of pads.

Wool Pads no matter which kind, 4 ply wool, 2x twisted wool, No burn, and Foam wool are all used for serious paint correction. This is usually used with a Rotary polishe and with these kinds of pads its very easy to remove serious defects but its also easy to burn out or strike through the paint. But since its made for Rotary we won't get the much into this.

Then there's the Curved edge pads these are foam pads that have a curved edge very good for curvy cars and excellent for those with recessed curves. This pad is also mainly used for Rotary Polisher since only in using a Rotary would you be able to maximize its potential, if you use this on a DA then you would just end up like using its cheaper counter part the flat pads

Now under flat pads there's 3 kinds of pads that i know LC manufactures and these would be the one you would be looking for.

First there's the Flat pads, these pads are your standard generic pads and are the staple in most body shops. They are as it is described just a flat circular foam pad.

Second there the Flat pads with polish pockets, these pads are pretty much like the flat pads but have an inward curve in it, this helps in keeping the product you are using from slinging out when running at high speeds since its like enclosing the product in a foam cage. Using this pad could save you a little product but you have to prime it well to be able to use is properly.

Third is the CCS, these are a lot like the flat pads but its polish pockets are a lot smaller like the size of our 5 centavo coins distributed all throughout the pads they claim to save product but i have yet to notice if this really save products

Then there's also the kompressor pads, and kompressor pads also come in flat and curved edge shapes much like the ones i perviously describe the only difference is that with kompressor pads its like the pads are cut like very small rectangular cubes, the good thing about this is that in conforms to different surface and lessens heat build up, but the downside with the is that since its like cut into many many small rectangular cubes you actually end up using more products.

Okay, thats it for now, i'll continue my post regarding foam colors and regarding the compatibility with kp600 later, my BF is already downstairs and its time to enjoy the night. I'll try to continue late tonight.

[Chikselog]

*madkatz
Damn.. You should post that at goon squad.. Did you get his license plate? Sorry to hear that. Malas ata itong week na ito sa mga oto natin.

BTW yung sampayan na talagang sira na at medyo inayos lang para mapakinabangan, hinangin daw sabi ng mom ko, ayun bumigay. Tinext lang ako habang nasa school, haay badtrip. I forgot to take pics ngayong araw na to.

Anyway, good thing wala ng mas masama pang nangyari sa'yo. Forget about them, there's karma for them waiting to happen.

[madkatz]

*chickselog: thanks for that, that sure made me feel better

*FasTrac: i'll continue tomorrow, i had too much to eat tonight that im not feeling quite well

[mau2485]

:bruce_lee:Nakakainit ng ulo talaga yang mga tricycle na yan!! Bumigat pakiramdam ko dun sa nangyari sayo ms. madkatz halos ganun din yung color ng car ko grrrrrrr. Pag nakabanga sila puro sorry nalang ganun nalang ba yun mabubura ba yung gasgas pag nagsorry na sila?! grrrr! Try kaya nila i-detail yung mga tricycle nila tapos mabanga? eh di wala parin hehehe tricycle lang yun eh.

[madkatz]

*mau: it would be ok if the guy said sorry, it would have been a ton better for me to accept it was just an accident, but to actually accuse me of being wrong? whats worse and what i hate the most was that these guys are all surrounding me some are even pushing me, it just shows how uneducated they are at treating women. its just soooo violating..... and right now im really buying a second can of pepper spray tonight and im putting one on all cars.

[mau2485]

Yun pa babae ka pa so sana naging mas gentle naman sila and sana hindi ka naman nila pinagtulungan. Usually pag babae kasi ang tingin nila parating babae ang may mali dinaan kaagad sa sindak grabe talaga!!!

[FasTrac]

* ess & madkatz, thank you for entertaining my questions...well i came to the right place, your explanations are superb... pls continue sharing your knowledge guys, for a newbie like me, i know i can learn alot from you...

Sorry for misleading you to that orbital polisher, what i have is a B&D car polisher model WP1300K with speed controller.
May i change the question now, i want this unit to be compatible with whether LC Pads or Meguiar's pads, so what you think guys is there a need for me to buy a new backing plate, spindle,and what else are needed?