canned spray paints

**HBOY** · January 20th, 2003 10:57 AM

started last saturday... damn hard!.. kaya pala i leave it to the experts dati!.. ehehe.. pero will try again over teh weekend.. .eheheh..

**richi101** · January 24th, 2003 02:40 AM

Sa festival mall may do it booth. I just went there last week to get a can. They mix the paint while you wait :green: even if you have the color code (mine is 758) the mixer will still go to your car, well that's if you want him to (dapat umaga or lunchtime) and bring the swatches (sample color from the car manufacturer to see if the color really matches then goes back to the booth, mix it, make a couple of sample sprays to match it with the sample then viola! exact color, stock paint (nippon, toyota kasi oto ko) in less than 20 mins :D :D One comment though, don't expect it to have the same gloss coz it's just paint and not clear coat, kaya bumili ako nung pylox na super clear hehehe! But I haven't tried it though kasi pangit yung buga ng pylox still thinking kung i-try ko..

**theveed** · January 24th, 2003 11:52 AM

Don't use pylox, laquer yun diba...

also, gloss of paint won't appear unless you wetsand it afterwards.

**slickae92red** · January 24th, 2003 03:06 PM

eh ano naman ang magandang high temp paint (can spray)?

**green** · January 24th, 2003 03:30 PM

richi101: Saan yung DoIt booth ba sa Festival? yung paints nila naka spray ba? or you'll still need a spray gun? Mga magkano yung paint?

theveed: what grit of sand paper will you use for wetsand? After wet sand you need to polish diba? By hand ba 'to o kailangan rotary?

Just for my info... Thanks

**HBOY** · January 24th, 2003 06:54 PM

hmm. ako rin. i need that kind of info.. what grit is need for wet sanding?. 1200 ba rough pa?. afterwhich?. what to do?. polish?. rubbing?..

**theveed** · January 24th, 2003 07:37 PM

green: 2000 up... 1200 will be very rough... haze na haze yan... 1800 makakalusot pa, but needs to be compouded a little after.

Here...

Color Sanding and Polishing

By Jeremy Goodspeed

You're attending your local car show looking for ideas for your own ride. Every time you see a vehicle with a glass like paint job, you stop and ask the owner "Who painted it?" Maybe you should be asking who color sanded and polished it.

The process of color sanding and polishing has been widely used for years by professional body shops to remove imperfections from a vehicle's freshly painted finish. Dust particles and small divots are things that are correctable by color sanding. Color sanding is also used for removing orange peal.

Orange peal is the term used to describe the bumpy surface of most painted finishes. It is referred to as orange peal because the paint surface looks like the surface of an orange, bumpy and uneven. Because of the make-up of today's urethane finishes, orange peal is almost unavoidable. The removal of these imperfections is what separates a normal paint job from an outstanding one.

Color sanding is certainly not an easy process, nor is it quick. It can take between 10 and 20 hours to complete a thorough job on an average sized automobile. It is time consuming because there are several steps involved in the process. It is also urged that persons who are not skilled in the process of machine polishing leave this procedure to a professional.

Orange Peel and Warping

Getting Started:

The first step in color sanding is to select the proper grit of color sanding paper for the operation. Color sanding paper comes in a variety of grits including 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit.

The finer paper will sand the surface more smoothly, however it will take longer and will not cut the surface as sharply. In most cases, a standard procedure is to cut the surface with 1000 grit, followed with 1500 grit and finishing with 2000 grit. 1000 grit paper will cut the surface much more sharply and eliminate more orange peal than starting with 1500 or 2000. If the desire is to match a factory finish for a small panel repair rather than a complete repaint, than a finer paper would be more desirable.

[img]http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/images/c03.jpg

Next, prepare a 5-gallon bucket with warm water and a few drops of car wash soap. The car wash soap will aid the water as a lubricant and allow the sanding paper to glide easily along the surface. Place several sheets of color sanding paper (of the proper grit) in the bucket and allow them to soak for at least 15 minutes. Soaking the color sanding paper will soften the paper and reduce any gouges caused by the paper being excessively rigid.

While the color sanding paper is soaking, thoroughly wash the vehicle to remove the surface dirt and contaminatesthat could damage the surface. Once the vehicle has been washed and properly dried, bring the vehicle indoors away from dust and direct sunlight.

Sanding:

With the color sanding paper properly softened and the vehicle washed, it is now time to start sanding. If the vehicle has been freshly painted, most trim will already have been removed. If not, remove any trim that can be removed without damage and tape off any trim that cannot.

Chose a sanding block that best suits the goal of the color sanding procedure. If the desire were to eliminate all orange peal and create a show car finish, the use of a hard block would be best. A trick that works well is a standard 1-gallon paint stir stick cut just shy of the length of the paper. Soak the stick in the same bucket of water until it becomes slightly flexible and roll the paper around the stir stick. As the paper rounds the stick, the edges become slightly rolled and this eliminates any paper gouging marks. As the paper wears, simply tear off one side of the paper and flip over the block to a new section of paper. If the goal were to only eliminate some imperfections or to match a factory finish, the use of a rubber coated foam block would be best. This type of block will only reduce the amount of orange peal and would best match an original finish.

When sanding, it is best to sand in straight lines going in two directions to insure a flat finish. Use a method of diagonal patterns that oppose each other creating an "X" pattern. Make sure to sand using only moderate pressure and allow the paper to do the work. While sanding use a terry cloth towel soaked in water to flush the sanding area while sanding is being performed. It is extremely important to allow plenty of water to flow over the sanding area.

The most important thing to remember when sanding is to listen for any particles under the paper. If any audible screeching or non-normal scratching is heard, wash the paper immediately and rinse the entire area. It is also important only to sand enough material from the vehicle to level out the finish.Going too far will result in "burning through" which is detrimental to the finish. To check the sanding progress, use a rubber squeegee to dry the surface. Inspect and sand areas that need more attention. If the sanding is started with 1000 grit, follow this step with a 1500 grit paper, and finish with 2000 grit using the same sanding process. If the goal is to only remove small imperfections, 2000-grit or finer paper may be a good choice for this procedure.

Polishing:
After the sanding has been completed, it is now time to start polishing the freshly sanded surface. Polishing the vehicle surface requires several steps in order to restore the gloss and depth in the paint. Just like the sandpaper process started from course to finer, the polishing process will follow the same principle.

The first step in polishing the surface is to restore gloss to the entire panel. This is achieved by using a variable speed circular polisher with a wool cutting pad. Using this course pad along with a heavy cutting compound will restore gloss to the surface and polish the sand scratches that were created from the sanding process. This step will also allow for inspection of any missed flaws. It has been found that a lower speed such as 1000-1800 rpm's works well to restore gloss without too much heat transfer. It is also a good idea to tape any adjacent surfaces with masking tape to insure that no damage or "burning through" will occur to the panels next to the one being polished on.

After the gloss has been restored, it will look dull with small polishing marks in the surface. This is normal for this step. The next step is to change to a foam-cutting pad and also change to a medium- polishing compound to deepen the gloss. This step will deepen gloss and allow better visibility. It will also show any remaining sand scratches that may still be visible. In some cases, this step may need to be repeated to achieve a uniform gloss and a scratch free finish.

To further deepen the gloss level, use the same variable speed circular polisher with a foam- polishing pad along with a finer polishing compound. This step will remove any remaining polishing marks in the surface and prepare the paint for it's final step. To eliminate any "swirl marks", this step may be repeated with a random orbital or DA polisher.

The final step is to apply a hand glaze. A hand glaze is a wax free protective coating applied to newly painted finishes that are less than 90 days old. A hand glaze allows the paint to properly breathe, allows solvents to evaporate and permits the paint to properly harden. Hand glazes are applied one panel at a time by using a soft polishing cloth. Be sure not to allow a hand glaze to dry on a painted surface. It will make it more difficult to remove.

Color sanding and polishing can easily transform a normal repaint into an exceptional one. The process is involved, however the results are worth the effort. In many cases, others looking at a vehicle that has been color sanded and polished, will often ask, "Who painted it?" Just smile, you know better.

You can do the compounding by hand as well instead of a machine, but it'll take a considerable amount of time...

Be very careful not to take out too much paint, especially on the other painted surfaces.

OKI DOC!?

8)

**green** · January 25th, 2003 12:40 AM

Watashiyut explanation! :mrgreen:

I think I'll leave this to the pros... hanggang tanggal lang ako ng swirl marks muna... :P

But these things are nice to know when having your car repainted... To make sure that the body shop is doing the job properly.:wink:

Thanks for the info!:D

**HBOY** · January 27th, 2003 11:44 AM

cool!!.. now have to buy those gadgets!.. ehehehe

**richi101** · February 5th, 2003 12:57 AM

Green,

Sori for the late reply :oops: Anyway the DoIt shop in festival is at the third level almost in front of Rack's and yes the paint that they mix will be put in spray cans. It costs Php375/can hth :D

Theveed,

Hindi ba matatangal yung clear coat pag nag-color sanding? :shock: