Sorry Evercool but we beg to differ.

**EVO-V** · October 10th, 2012 08:08 PM

Originally Posted by lowslowbenz

So which would be a better radiator given the case above? Aluminum core or copper core

In this situation a copper/brass radiator would be better as it would be more resistant to corrosion.

But you need to understand all these issues are conditional. As long as you don't have any stray voltage running through the engine and as long as your coolant chemistry is relatively neutral you'll be fine with an aluminum radiator.

**EVO-V** · October 10th, 2012 08:09 PM

Originally Posted by j_dipad

*TS, well, your the one who's making it personal TS, sa mga post mo eh parang may galit ka. wala ba? i have no problem with evercool, thats why i dont create threads like what you did. and by the way, CHILL DUDE. im just stating the obvious.

Erm what about this is personal? You did read the posts right? I have a problem with their alchemy posting for science marketing practices and this thread is intended to correct the disinformation they are propagating. If they have a rep willing to discuss these things, they are free to do so.

I've also recommended their radiators vs getting one recored in radiator chop shops.

If there's anything else less objective than your need to cite the supposedly "obvious" please let me know and I shall address them.

**oj88** · October 10th, 2012 09:24 PM

Interesting thread, especially about the effects of bad grounding practices and electrolyses as the cause of cooling system corrosion.

It then begs the question of whether one should ground the radiator core or not? There seems to be two school of thoughts. Some TSBs say that grounding the core is essential while others say otherwise.

My take is that, you shouldn't. Doing so will cause it to become an anode and encourage electrolyses, the opposite of what you want. But what if you can put in a sacrificial anode to divert the electrolyses from happening in the radiator core?

If you think about it, most modern vehicles sporting aluminum radiators seems to have all the parts necessary to isolate the radiator core from chassis ground. Just to mention a few, they have plastic top and bottom covers, use rubber grommets for suspension, and have largely-plastic fan blowers and shrouds that essentially function as insulators from any metal.

Reactions?

**s10pao** · October 10th, 2012 10:26 PM

Originally Posted by oj88

My take is that, you shouldn't. Doing so will cause it to become an anode and encourage electrolyses, the opposite of what you want. But what if you can put in a sacrificial anode to divert the electrolyses from happening in the radiator core?
Reactions?

From what I understand, this should not make the radiator an anode. Grounding the the radiator ensures that stray current will not
flow through the radiator since current follows the least resistive path (which is the grounding wire).

**EVO-V** · October 10th, 2012 11:41 PM

If your engine is not properly grounded, then we're not addressing the problem in the first place.

Always remember folks, use a good coolant.

**EVO-V** · October 11th, 2012 12:14 AM

Originally Posted by s10pao

From what I understand, this should not make the radiator an anode. Grounding the the radiator ensures that stray current will not
flow through the radiator since current follows the least resistive path (which is the grounding wire).

Depending on the alloy mix in the loop. If your engine block is iron and your rad aluminum by default, ground (stray voltages) or otherwise, the aluminum is the sacrificial anode.

**dr. d** · October 11th, 2012 01:30 AM

...because Aluminum is lower in the activity chain than that of other metals in the engine and has a relatively smaller mass in ratio to the surface areas exposed.

actually, aluminum is one of the most reactive ("highest") metals in the activity chain. only magnesium rates higher.. (potassium, sodium and calcium are higher still, but let's not get too technical..). so,... magnesium is the sacrificial lamb?.. mag wheels anyone? heh heh.
and mass has nothing to do with reactivity.. but a large surface area does tend to speed things up..

and coolant solutions have anti-corrosion substances in them, to prevent or slow down corrosion of metals. but eventually, these additives get used up. that is why some authorities recommend regular replacement of radiator liquids.

propylene glycol and ethylene glycol as pollutants? maybe not so much, because these are used as de-icers in airports. ..

and i re-read the suggested reading at the start of this thread. i still can't see the name of "Evercool" in there...

**s10pao** · October 11th, 2012 01:52 AM

Originally Posted by EVO-V

Depending on the alloy mix in the loop. If your engine block is iron and your rad aluminum by default, ground (stray voltages) or otherwise, the aluminum is the sacrificial anode.

Thanks for this information sir.

So in this case, is proper grounding of engine enough to prevent galvanic corrosion or is there a need to install a sacrificial anode?

**EVO-V** · October 11th, 2012 12:13 PM

Originally Posted by dr. d

...because Aluminum is lower in the activity chain than that of other metals in the engine and has a relatively smaller mass in ratio to the surface areas exposed.

actually, aluminum is one of the most reactive ("highest") metals in the activity chain. only magnesium rates higher.. (potassium, sodium and calcium are higher still, but let's not get too technical..). so,... magnesium is the sacrificial lamb?.. mag wheels anyone? heh heh.

and mass has nothing to do with reactivity.. but a large surface area does tend to speed things up..

Aluminum is lower in the activity chain hence it is more reactive. Check your periodic table.

The greater the mass of an object provides the higher the electrical resistance. Less resistance increases galvanic corrosion. That is why an aluminum engine block in a galvanic solution will not corrode as fast as an aluminum radiator where the tubes are thin relative to their exposed surface area.

and coolant solutions have anti-corrosion substances in them, to prevent or slow down corrosion of metals. but eventually, these additives get used up. that is why some authorities recommend regular replacement of radiator liquids.

Depends on your coolants' lifetime rating. The stock coolant that comes with your car should last at least 100,000 km if you do not contaminate it. Aftermarket cost-optimized coolants have shorter lifetimes.

Which authorities are you referring to who recommend regular replacement of radiator coolant?

propylene glycol and ethylene glycol as pollutants? maybe not so much, because these are used as de-icers in airports. ..

Funny you mentioned de-icers. De-icers actually have neutralizing agents as per requirement. What you would worry about when flushing coolant is the contamination from the the engine that comes with the run off.

and i re-read the suggested reading at the start of this thread. i still can't see the name of "Evercool" in there...

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**EVO-V** · October 11th, 2012 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by s10pao

Thanks for this information sir.

So in this case, is proper grounding of engine enough to prevent galvanic corrosion or is there a need to install a sacrificial anode?

Proper grounding is important. By grounding, lest the good doctor gets very nitpicky, means that its properly earthed.

Placing a sacrificial anode is not necessarily a good thing for cars. The resulting corrosion will cause more problems and degrade your coolant solution.

This is only done in really large heat exchangers for industrial applications wherein it is inevitable to mix metals in the loop. The tolerance for anodic byproducts are higher.